info and break down of model 1889 side by side

bearrun767 · Post by **bearrun767** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:08 pm

I have a side by side 12 ga. Has hammers identified to be model 1889. Remington Arms Co, Ilion NY USA is stamped on rib area between barrels just in front of hammers. Remington Arms Co. is stamped on both sides near hammers. Underneath the forestock both the metal piece and wood is stamped 213493 which appears to be the serial number. Also on this metal piece is stamped 378. Under the barrels where the forestock covers, each barrel is stamped with an F followed by a dash followed by an arrow followed by what looks like a P. When I break open so as to load shells, i notice just aft of the hinge, the 213493 again stamped as well as 378 and 26 and an R and the number 1.

First, I am looking for confirmation of the model and year manufactured. Secondly, I can not tell if the barrels are damascus. I do not believe they are as they appear like any other aged steel barrel. This gun has been in my family since the middle 1930's and I know it has had lots of shells shot through these barrels during all these years. Thirdly, I am unable to break the rear stock apart from the barrels for cleaning. I took it to a local gunsmith and he had no luck either. He said there must be a special trick to it. Can anyone help me with these questions and any other info on this model. I plan on keeping this in the family and would like to keep it as a shooter as well.

Thanks!

Jay Huber · Post by **Jay Huber** » Mon May 01, 2006 6:02 pm

Based on the serial number your gun is an 1889 model made in 1901. If the barrels don't show a damascus pattern they are probably steel which was supplied on the 1889. I don't understand why you can't remove the barrels from the frame? Just put your finger in the finger hole on the bottom of the forearm and pull the lever out of the forearm. The fore arm can be removed and then the barrels will come off. It may be that the forearm latch is not disengaging for some reason if the forearm doesn't come free. You may have to tal it lightly with a hammer to get it to travel all the way free. I hope you are not trying to remove the butt stock from the frame? There is no to do this. Jay Huber RSA

bearrun767 · Post by **bearrun767** » Mon May 01, 2006 7:38 pm

Thanks for responding Jay. There is a 3/4 moon pin that is just above a screw right at the barrel hinge point. When breaking open the barrels with the release, this 3/4 moon pin first comes out around 1/16 of an inch then I can push it back in until flush. Is there possibly a spring supposed to be under there with tension? (I am not trying to remove the buttstock, but just trying to get the barrels off to give it a thorough cleaning.) Just to clarify, with the barrels broken open, would one tap on the aft part of the barrels or the fore end (sight end) of the barrels? Thanks! Phil

Jay Huber · Post by **Jay Huber** » Tue May 02, 2006 8:58 am

That moon pin has nothing to do with the removal of the barrels. It is not supposed to be spring loaded. Your barrels should come off if you remove the forearm. I have to shake mine a little bit but they disengage fine. I don't know why yours will not? Jay

bearrun767 · Post by **bearrun767** » Tue May 02, 2006 6:43 pm

Thanks Jay and Charlie!
I attempted all that and to no avail. I am able to get the forestock off as normal. Whether the barrels are open or closed, this bolt stop pin does come out approx 1/8 inch. It can be physically pushed back in or can slide in and out with gravity. I made attempt to pull it out further with needle nose pliers, but it would not come out any further. Could that bolt stop pin be possibly broken somewhere down inside? It doesnt seem normal that it moves this freely. I am thinking that the aft part of this pin is broken and not disengaging whatever it disengages in the back. Any idea on the length of this pin. What purpose does the screw have that sits just underneath this pin?

There is another pin (Is this called the "locking bolt")running underneath the barrels that appears to normally lock the barrels down in the closed position. With the barrels fully broken open, if one takes the top lever and moves it to the right, this pin only moves back and forth 1/32nd of an inch. Is that normal?

Everything else on this gun seems to be tight, and functioning normally.
Phil

JKN · Post by **JKN** » Tue May 02, 2006 7:17 pm

hold the top lever all the way to theright as you lift the bbls off.

bearrun767 · Post by **bearrun767** » Tue May 02, 2006 8:35 pm

I was finally able to get it!!

The problem was that when I moved the lever all the way to the right, it was bumping up against the right hammer. What I had to do was to push in the right hammer up against the rear of the firing pin allowing the lever to move just a little more to the right.

I want to thank everyone for their help and information. This double barrel is one of 2 guns that I have from my grandparents who raised 10 children, using this gun for putting food on the table. It is a great joy knowing that my 4 and 6 year old will grow up being able to hunt in the same woods with the same early 1900's guns that their great grandparents used.

Just one more question now that I can see them. There are 2 sets of numbers, "42" and "48" stamped on the locking hook (just under the ejector) that holds down the barrel in the closed position. Could these be the barrel patterning numbers when factory tested that I have read about, and if so, how are they interpreted?
Thanks! Phil

bearrun767 · Post by **bearrun767** » Wed May 03, 2006 1:46 pm

A pair of modifieds means that I will just have to call my turkey in that much closer with normal #4 loads. Thanks!
Phil

clament · Post by **clament** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:15 pm

I have been trying to get the barrels off of my 1889 Remi for over a year and gave up in frustration. With the responses to your question I was able to finally get mine apart. I wonder if this is a common problem with these old guns??

Thanks a Bunch
Terry

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