Beware of scammers.

dieNusse1 wrote: Sat Jul 05, 2025 5:41 pm my pics look fine. Very nice gun.

Thanks.
My pocket Canon Power Shot has little illuminated boxes that supposedly focus when I push the shutter button halfway down to tell me it's focused. But for whatever reason I can still mess it up.

wlw-19958 wrote: Sat Jul 05, 2025 3:23 pm Hi There,

Congratulations on your recent acquisition! It looks really nice.

The only criticism I have is the blurry pics.

Cheers!
Webb

Sorry. My picture taking always seems to be lacking. Fortunately the Hepburn is nicer than my photography!

My collection of Hepburn rifles just grew by one more yesterday when another arrived via the brown truck. A Hepburn in a rare .45 2 7/8" showed up on another site and I was lucky to see it first and grab it. The .45 2 7/8" is also referred to as the .45-110 Sharps, and was a powerful cartridge ...

Why haven't the Russian posts been deleted, and the person posting them banned yet? Seems like a couple got deleted, but most still clutter up this site.

viewtopic.php?t=29677

The schnabel tip with horn inlay was standard after the late 1880's. Prior to that they has steel forearm tips. There are gunsmiths who can convert one from RF to CF, but usually isn't worth the cost unless the price is very cheap to buy it.

It's a No. 2 Remington, but someone has added a high comb to the original buttstock. Probably easy to remove the added wood if you carefully cut it off, and gradually work down to the original surface.
These No. 2 Rolling Blocks have become quite desirable if they are in almost any caliber that's ...

Have you contacted Kenn yet about the missing parts?

The steel schnabel type forearm tips were used almost exclusively on all Remington Sporting rifles built prior to 1886 or so. Only rifles that didn't use them were the little #4 and #6 versions. #1, #1.5, and #2 all used them unless it was a special order stock that might have a horn tip.

The #2 is a much smaller frame with octagon top and curved edges on each end of the receivers. They are sort of a fancy smaller variation.
My #2 in .32-20WCF:
https://i.imgur.com/ovB1OvMl.jpg

What you have is an early round top #1 Rolling Block, and it's likely in .38 Long which could be a ...

So why choose 18" then? Seems like you'd be better off going traditional length of the .38-55 cartridge. And wont have a stubby looking Rolling Block.

Can't say as I've ever heard of anyone doing the conversion to a sliding extractor, and betting nobody has.
The 18" barrel is going to really limit the effectiveness of the .38-55 cartridge, not to mention the very short sight radius. Most people use a 28" at least and a 30"-32" is even more ...

Thanks for that, found a compatable barrel liner from track of the wolf for 38-55 that i can get into a reamed .43 barrel.

Next problem, rotary extractor breech blocks seem to be impossible to find, any known seller or is there a way to convert this to bar extractor?


Converting to a bar ...

It's a BP era action, and is fine for .38-55 cartridge. Not like the later smokeless actions that are very heavy in the receiver ring and can be milled to octagon top like a Sporting Rifle action. But leave the action round top and it can handle .38-55 loads easily.
.375 Winchester is over 50,000 ...

When I make pins I use a piece of round stock in the lathe and leave it long while turning so I have extra to hold in the chuck. I don't cut the head or length off until I polish it to fit. Then once it's polished down with emery paper to a perfect fit I put it back in the lathe and cut the head and ...

Can't say I've ever checked clearance for new pins I bought or made? I simply make them as close a fit as possible, but no friction that makes the pins snug enough that the movement of the hammer or block makes the pins want to move also. I just polish the pins until the block/hammer moves freely on ...