Anyone have any information about the 1894 1900 shotgun?

[Walz]

What I have is a: 1900, 310746 serial number, nickel plated, SXS, same as the 1894.

I've been having a tough time getting information about this firearm.

The parts are scarce, I've been everywhere checking out for parts.

The firearm disassembly procedure is non existent, all I've found is some parts diagrams that are not complete. I really need this as a couple of broken parts fell out of the firearm when I was disassembling the receiver.

I have not been able to find anything referencing about this firearm in my books.

I can't find anything about the serial numbers.

I know that the 1894, 1900 are identical in parts.

I do know that this firearm was made between 1902-1904.

I do know that the firearm is a pre 1905 from the firing pins being one piece and the 2 screws holding the plate in place, instead of one.

I have found a replacement stock.

I am having the firearm de-plated right now, then I can see what I want to do after that.

[Walz]

More photographs of the firearm that I am re-building.

[Walz]

IMG_8361.jpg (31.12 KiB) Viewed 7272 times

More photographs of the firearm that I am re-building.

IMG_6087.jpg (33.59 KiB) Viewed 7272 times

Can anyone tell me what this safety plunger does???

IMG_2149.jpg (44.83 KiB) Viewed 7272 times

Bluing is what I want to do to the finish. The forend is salvageable, the stock looks like shit, pieces are missing. It locks up real tight so that's not a problem, the barrels are steel so that's a plus, better than the other barrels, and I don't know much about the older shotgun shells except that they were shorter, and the newer manufacturer shells are to much for the barrels so I'm buying the old style shotgun shells.

[Walz]

I'm just looking for answers, real answers, not BS. Please let me know if you or someone knows these firearms and can give me some good information about what I need. The internet is not helping me find the answer. That's why I am here it's my last resort.

[dieNusse1]

From the S/N, your 1900 K grade was made in 1901. Two versions of the K grade were offered at that time. Your plain K grade has steel barrels and extractors while the KED has damascus barrels and ejectors and cost about $10 more. Later, 1903, the KD was offered followed by the KE in 1906 or so. So, in total there were four versions available -- K, KD, KE & KED depending whether or not they had ejectors vs. extractors or steel vs. damascus barrels. Your gun should be stamped with a K on the barrels.

The production of all SxSs (1889, 1894 & 1900) ended in 1910 as Remington saw the pump and auto loader as the future.

As they came from the factory, all K grades (and 1894s) were color case hardened. However with all things Remington some had blued trigger guards/top levers (?) and others didn't. There are smiths out there that do very good work and I've had several refinished with wonderful results.

The safety plunger (mounted on the trigger plate) moves the safety to the SAFE position when the gun is opened.

The 1900 and 1894 are nearly the same gun. The 1894 has a Purdey style forearm while the 1900 has a simple snap on.

You haven't mentioned barrels but they should be cold blued as the hot dip method tends to eat at the solder and you end up with two separate barrels -- not good.

As for chamber length -- it is 2 5/8". Most of us use standard 2 3/4" plastic shells and low pressure loads - plastic case thickness is much less than the paper case used back then. There are also reams available to modify chamber length.

[Walz]

From the S/N, your 1900 K grade was made in 1901. Two versions of the K grade were offered at that time. Your plain K grade has steel barrels and extractors while the KED has damascus barrels and ejectors and cost about $10 more. Later, 1903, the KD was offered followed by the KE in 1906 or so. So, in total there were four versions available -- K, KD, KE & KED depending whether or not they had ejectors vs. extractors or steel vs. damascus barrels. Your gun should be stamped with a K on the barrels.

The production of all SxSs (1889, 1894 & 1900) ended in 1910 as Remington saw the pump and auto loader as the future.

As they came from the factory, all K grades (and 1894s) were color case hardened. However with all things Remington some had blued trigger guards/top levers (?) and others didn't. There are smiths out there that do very good work and I've had several refinished with wonderful results.

The safety plunger (mounted on the trigger plate) moves the safety to the SAFE position when the gun is opened.

The 1900 and 1894 are nearly the same gun. The 1894 has a Purdey style forearm while the 1900 has a simple snap on.

You haven't mentioned barrels but they should be cold blued as the hot dip method tends to eat at the solder and you end up with two separate barrels -- not good.

As for chamber length -- it is 2 5/8". Most of us use standard 2 3/4" plastic shells and low pressure loads - plastic case thickness is much less than the paper case used back then. There are also reams available to modify chamber length.

Thanks for the information.

[Walz]

Thanks for the response.

I have a great finishing gunsmith, all he does is the hot bluing refinishing for my firearms, so the barrels separating are not a big concern, as he has done this may times over, and if a issue does exist, he will take care of it. He has refinished my Polish AKM, which came out awesome. Hot bluing is the only way to get a firearm refinished, making it extremely valuable vs any other finish in regards to old firearms.

This shotgun will never be worth what a original Remington shotgun was, however I can make it a awesome firearm to go shooting with, and it will be like a new looking firearm, with the appeal of a vintage shotgun 100+ years old. That's better than the new stuff being made today being outsourced and not American quality made like this shotgun.

This is my latest builder, a sweet Polish AKMS, I am now working on a Polish AKM, the sister to this one:

[dieNusse1]

If you're really interested in the development of the Remington SxSs, you need to order a copy of Charles Semmer's book Remington Double Shotguns which is available on this site. It provides the history of these guns from the 1873 lifter model through the 1900 model. Unfortunately there is little mechanical type information.

As for your comment about blueing -- I for one would not take a 1894 DE grade with Oxford 4 SJ barrels and blue it which would reduce it's value by 50 - 75% (maybe $12,000 - 15,000). Just my opinion.

[Walz]

If you're really interested in the development of the Remington SxSs, you need to order a copy of Charles Semmer's book Remington Double Shotguns which is available on this site. It provides the history of these guns from the 1873 lifter model through the 1900 model. Unfortunately there is little mechanical type information.

As for your comment about blueing -- I for one would not take a 1894 DE grade with Oxford 4 SJ barrels and blue it which would reduce it's value by 50 - 75% (maybe $12,000 - 15,000). Just my opinion.

Actually, when the last post reminded me about that the soft led, I conveyed that to my re-finishing guy who all ready checked out the soft led issues and was emailing me with the news.


I'm going to remove the remaining nickel, and re-plate it after the firearm has been cleaned up, prepped, and ready to go. This is why I need help with restoring the firearm, I am really thankful for a professional finisher who knows what he is doing. I'm thankful for someone on this forum who brought this to my attention also.


I really need a diagram illustrating the parts installation, I have detailed pictures of my disassembly, however I have a two chingaderas that fell out during disassembly and they are broken. So I really need something that is a diagram. I have worked on many of firearms, and everyone is different, no one can just put a firearm in a standard category, they are unique, really unique, and no one can expect a gunsmith to know every firearm, I can put this together, however the time would be double since I don't have a diagram, I was just hoping to find one.


I've found the correct ammunition for this firearm so I can keep it original without any modifications.

This is not a top of the line Remington 1894 SXS firearm, it's a 1900 plain SXS however, I'm keeping it original to the factory specifications as best as I can, the finish is gone, so I either toss the shotgun or I restore it simple plan, I got it for free, it was in a crate, on a dirt floor in a garage.

Thanks

[dieNusse1]

Which parts are broken besides the top lever spring? From your pics almost everything seems to be there. I don't see the safety plunger spring. It's a small flat spring that mounts to the wood with a very small wood screw and keeps the plunger in place.

As for assembly instructions -- there isn't any source that i'm aware of. It's been a year or two since I've taken one down but it's basically just the reverse of disassembly. Can't remember any "tricks".

Yep - cold rust blueing for the barrels.

[Walz]

Which parts are broken besides the top lever spring? From your pics almost everything seems to be there. I don't see the safety plunger spring. It's a small flat spring that mounts to the wood with a very small wood screw and keeps the plunger in place.

As for assembly instructions -- there isn't any source that i'm aware of. It's been a year or two since I've taken one down but it's basically just the reverse of disassembly. Can't remember any "tricks".

Yep - cold rust blueing for the barrels.

"safety plunger spring" That's got to be it, the stock is broken at the neck so it's the safety plunger spring. Thanks

I'm going to re- nickel the firearm, just like the factory original finish.

Again, thanks for giving me the rest of the puzzle.

[Walz]

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See, this is what I mean, good solid positive information from the knowledgeable forum members and not a bunch of useless ramblings and crap.

[dieNusse1]

Not to be a crab but nickel plating was NEVER used. Other than the barrels, all major parts were color case hardened. Some small parts were blued.

[Walz]

Not to be a crab but nickel plating was NEVER used. Other than the barrels, all major parts were color case hardened. Some small parts were blued.

No, you are not a crab, you have a good point about the finish. I need input, do you have some photos for reference??
I'm all for good positive input here. The firearm is completely plated, and if it's incorrect I need to find out the original finish. Seems like you know a lot about this firearm.

[dieNusse1]

Go to ---- Dating My 1894 SxS Damascus --- which is several topics down from your post. Several pics there that show original color case hardening.