Good evening gentlemen. I just found your site, and I would like to ask your input concerning a problem I have with a 30.06 742 mfg'd July 1971.
The rifle is in great shape, and does not show the wear associated with a "worn out" receiver. I load the magazine, chamber a round, pull the trigger and it goes bang; the rifle will then extract, eject and chamber a fresh round; pull the trigger and no bang. I manually work the action and the unfired round will extract, eject, a new round will be chambered, pull the trigger and it goes bang. The unfired round displays a slight primer indent, and will fire next time. The rifle is clean, the chamber has been polished, the trigger assembly has been thoroughly cleaned several times, and I have installed a new disconnect. I have also used different brands and weights of ammo and different magazines. I can manually work the action of the unloaded rifle (no mag inserted) and not replicate the problem. I can remove the trigger assembly and not replicate the problem. This has been driving me crazy for 3 yrs. Help!
Thanks!
John
742 problem
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The Rifleman
Re: 742 problem
Here is the situation.
Some of them old Woods Masters are not exactly the best guns in the world.
You are right in believing that you had a problem and you threw good money after bad at it trying to solve your problem.
I'm proud of you that you never gave up - trying different brands of ammo and things to try to solve your problem.
The one question I would have is - did you take it to a QUALIFIED GUNSMITH?
My guess would be no.
Because this is NOT a bolt action rifle, most logic goes out the window with your question.
I'm sure as you know - that there are a lot of moving parts inside of your gun and all of them has to work together for it to work properly.
The very first thing to look at is the clip.
There has been people that I know that tried to make a machine gun out of a Woods Master and when they went to a high volume clip, the spring pressure of the high volume clip - when fully loaded would cause the shell case to interfear with the bolt. Slowing it down to the point - where it would not fully chamber the round.
An aftermarket clip that does not fit properly will also do the same thing.
Then there is the alignment of the clip inside of the action, it has to be right or it will not feed properly.
Then there might be gas ports that is pluged - that allows the action to cycle - but does not give it the full amount of pressure to feed the new round.
Then there is the spring for the hammer that hits the firing pin.
Without seeing the gun, there is no way for me to make an assumption as to what is wrong with it.
Send it to a Authorized Remington Service Center, where there will be a gunsmith that can diagnose your problem and repair it.
If there isn't any in your area, contact Grice Gun Shop in Clearfield PA and they will repair it for you.
http://www.gricegunshop.com
Some of them old Woods Masters are not exactly the best guns in the world.
You are right in believing that you had a problem and you threw good money after bad at it trying to solve your problem.
I'm proud of you that you never gave up - trying different brands of ammo and things to try to solve your problem.
The one question I would have is - did you take it to a QUALIFIED GUNSMITH?
My guess would be no.
Because this is NOT a bolt action rifle, most logic goes out the window with your question.
I'm sure as you know - that there are a lot of moving parts inside of your gun and all of them has to work together for it to work properly.
The very first thing to look at is the clip.
There has been people that I know that tried to make a machine gun out of a Woods Master and when they went to a high volume clip, the spring pressure of the high volume clip - when fully loaded would cause the shell case to interfear with the bolt. Slowing it down to the point - where it would not fully chamber the round.
An aftermarket clip that does not fit properly will also do the same thing.
Then there is the alignment of the clip inside of the action, it has to be right or it will not feed properly.
Then there might be gas ports that is pluged - that allows the action to cycle - but does not give it the full amount of pressure to feed the new round.
Then there is the spring for the hammer that hits the firing pin.
Without seeing the gun, there is no way for me to make an assumption as to what is wrong with it.
Send it to a Authorized Remington Service Center, where there will be a gunsmith that can diagnose your problem and repair it.
If there isn't any in your area, contact Grice Gun Shop in Clearfield PA and they will repair it for you.
http://www.gricegunshop.com
Re: 742 problem
John,
Let me start by saying I am not a gunsmith. But it seems to me that a light hit on the primer would indicate the bolt is not locking up all the way. You know the fireing pin is free, and it will fire so the head space must be too great. It could very well be that the clip is slowing the bolt return so that it doesn't lock up .
That's my opinion for what it's worth.
chuck D
Let me start by saying I am not a gunsmith. But it seems to me that a light hit on the primer would indicate the bolt is not locking up all the way. You know the fireing pin is free, and it will fire so the head space must be too great. It could very well be that the clip is slowing the bolt return so that it doesn't lock up .
That's my opinion for what it's worth.
chuck D
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W7ACT
Re: 742 problem
It sounds like the firing pin is hanging up in the forward position. The problem can be caused by either a dirt buildup in the bolt or a worn out spring in the bolt. My guess it's an accumulation of dirt in the firing pin mechanism not letting the firing pin to hang up on you this will generally occur when loading a cartridge into battery of a the semi auto after dry firing the weapon.
I had the same problem with an International Arms spring loaded 12 GA Semi Auto years ago and it was an unnerving experience when this would happen. Unless you are familiar on how to disassemble and reassemble the 742 take to your local gunsmith and have him perform a good cleaning of the bolt mechanism.
I had the same problem with an International Arms spring loaded 12 GA Semi Auto years ago and it was an unnerving experience when this would happen. Unless you are familiar on how to disassemble and reassemble the 742 take to your local gunsmith and have him perform a good cleaning of the bolt mechanism.
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shot1too
Re: 742 problem
Sounds to me like a short stroke. Like the Rifleman says, s trip to a Remington authorized repair shop would take care of it. Most common cause of a short stroke is a cloged gas port or system. With the hammer uncocked the f-pin will touch the primer when the bolt gots home (light indent).