Mick,
Welcome to the forum - you got about the same welcome as I did on my first posting (not a lot).
It doesn't look as if your example is an original. The photo of the exposed grip frame shows 3 recesses that look as if they were from a modern mould casting. This area should have been level. The 3 digit codes look very much like "piece" parts, and are usually found on Italian repros.
There wouldn't be a number on the barrel as this is counted as part of the frame on repros.
Look to see if the same 3 digits appear on the wood grips.
S/N on an original's trigger guard is on the tang that fits into the underside of the frame.
George.
1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
Re: 1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
Mick, I'm attaching a picture of my repro NMA .44, made in 1978 (decoded from the Italian stampings). Made for the Navy Arms Co. N.J. by Pietta.
Note the 3 digit code "piece parts" numbers on grip frame and trigger guard.
Also note the short guard "tang". My cylinderhas got a different part number, but the barrel underside, hidden by the cylinder pin, has the same 309 number.
I fear that someone has obliterated the other tell-tale markings and "aged" the gun. Can you produce a good photo of the barrel top "legend"?
Best regards, George.
Note the 3 digit code "piece parts" numbers on grip frame and trigger guard.
Also note the short guard "tang". My cylinderhas got a different part number, but the barrel underside, hidden by the cylinder pin, has the same 309 number.
I fear that someone has obliterated the other tell-tale markings and "aged" the gun. Can you produce a good photo of the barrel top "legend"?
Best regards, George.
- Attachments
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- part numbers
- Frame and Guard - repro.jpg (116.24 KiB) Viewed 5600 times
Re: 1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
George...I have not been here for awhile...so WELCOME..Keep your sense of humor, some good folks here......Jim
Re: 1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
Jim, thank you for the welcome. You have a very nice display. Because of English Gun Laws, I'm not able to have my collection on display, if it comprises the items that I shoot. If we shoot our antiques, they have to be on a Firearms Certificate and any items on a Firearms Certificate (FAC) need to be locked away in steel cabinets that meet the safety and security requirements of the UK Police.CALIBRE44 wrote:George...I have not been here for awhile...so WELCOME..Keep your sense of humor, some good folks here......Jim
I'm still ever hopeful that someone will come along and tell me who was the "inspector" that used the "A" stamp - was it Ainsworth himself?
What we musn't detract from is Mick's original enquiry about his revolver - is it original or is is a reproduction?
Regards, George.
Re: 1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
George; I am familiar with your firearms laws, as I have some friends on your side of the pond.
The only comment I have on the original post is I don't see any inspector marks and the serial numbers on mine are quite small, about !/32" in height. Jim
The only comment I have on the original post is I don't see any inspector marks and the serial numbers on mine are quite small, about !/32" in height. Jim
Re: 1858 - what do I have here?? Early serial?
Mike,
Are you still there? The revolver you have looks very nice and does have the low hammer. Have you taken the gun completely apart yet? To get the mainspring out (after removing the two-part grips), place a small block of wood under the grip frame, near the spring recess cut-out, place a flatblade screwdriver onto the edge of the spring and tap the end of the driver until the spring pops out - do this as step (4a) below. You can then go about dismantling the rest of it.
(1) cock the hammer to 1st notch.
(2) Drop the loading lever and pull the cylinder pin forwards
(3) rotate the cylinder, clockwise (when viewed from the grip end) and out of the frame to the right of the gun.
(4) lower the hammer.
(4a) now remove the spring as detailed above
(5) Take out the trigger guard
(6) Remove the screw holding the trigger and cylinder-stop spring, remove the spring
(7) take out the single screw used to locate the trigger and cylinder stop, remove bothe items
(8) take out the hammer screw and gently push the hammer down into the frame, until the hand swivel screw appears.
(9) using a much smaller driver, remove the screw that is the hand swivel and pull the habd and spring downwards and out of the frame
(10) the hammer can now be removed through the upper part of the frame.
(11) remove the screw holding the loading lever to the frame and remove the lever assembly.
Now, using a jeweller's eye-piece, or some other magnifying instrument, look at every piece part for any other identifying marks, however faint they may be.
Please report what you find.
Re-assembly is a reversal of the dismantling procedure - the main spring is the last item (bar the 2 piece grips) that goes in. Use snipe-nosed pliers with a non-serrated flat section, to grip the fat part of the spring, so that you can ease it into the frame cut-out - get it just in and then tap it home with either the plastic handle of a screwdriver or some other non-metalic sturdy object.
Best regards,
George.
Are you still there? The revolver you have looks very nice and does have the low hammer. Have you taken the gun completely apart yet? To get the mainspring out (after removing the two-part grips), place a small block of wood under the grip frame, near the spring recess cut-out, place a flatblade screwdriver onto the edge of the spring and tap the end of the driver until the spring pops out - do this as step (4a) below. You can then go about dismantling the rest of it.
(1) cock the hammer to 1st notch.
(2) Drop the loading lever and pull the cylinder pin forwards
(3) rotate the cylinder, clockwise (when viewed from the grip end) and out of the frame to the right of the gun.
(4) lower the hammer.
(4a) now remove the spring as detailed above
(5) Take out the trigger guard
(6) Remove the screw holding the trigger and cylinder-stop spring, remove the spring
(7) take out the single screw used to locate the trigger and cylinder stop, remove bothe items
(8) take out the hammer screw and gently push the hammer down into the frame, until the hand swivel screw appears.
(9) using a much smaller driver, remove the screw that is the hand swivel and pull the habd and spring downwards and out of the frame
(10) the hammer can now be removed through the upper part of the frame.
(11) remove the screw holding the loading lever to the frame and remove the lever assembly.
Now, using a jeweller's eye-piece, or some other magnifying instrument, look at every piece part for any other identifying marks, however faint they may be.
Please report what you find.
Re-assembly is a reversal of the dismantling procedure - the main spring is the last item (bar the 2 piece grips) that goes in. Use snipe-nosed pliers with a non-serrated flat section, to grip the fat part of the spring, so that you can ease it into the frame cut-out - get it just in and then tap it home with either the plastic handle of a screwdriver or some other non-metalic sturdy object.
Best regards,
George.