Two more pumps headed this way!
The first thing is to tighten sown the take-down screw as much as possible. If that doesn't fix the wobble, about all you can do that I know of is to "rough up" the take down area with a screwdriver. I'm sure that's not the gunsmith recommendation, but it will help if the parts aren't too badly worn. Anybody out there have a better plan. I don't really like to twist on a vintage M/12...
I like your idea better than mine. I knew there had to be a better way. I also hate to mar any gun, specially a M/12. I'll try a little bit of very soft lead.
The take-down screw was meant to be finger or coin tightened. I have had some M/12s that were helped by a fairly light touch with a screw driver. Using a coin is a better idea except in extreme cases.
The take-down screw was meant to be finger or coin tightened. I have had some M/12s that were helped by a fairly light touch with a screw driver. Using a coin is a better idea except in extreme cases.
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The Rifleman
The process of tightening up the fit - as you put it is called Knurling.John Gyde wrote:The first thing is to tighten sown the take-down screw as much as possible. If that doesn't fix the wobble, about all you can do that I know of is to "rough up" the take down area with a screwdriver. I'm sure that's not the gunsmith recommendation, but it will help if the parts aren't too badly worn. Anybody out there have a better plan. I don't really like to twist on a vintage M/12...
If you take the gun to a qualified gunsmith - they can grind, weld, knurl and fix almost anything for a price.
Using a screwdriver to scratch the surface to tighten it up is not a very good idea. You might as well just throw it in the garbage and eliminate the middle man.
Rifleman:
In your opinion, grinding and welding is fine, but "roughing" means the rifle has to be thrown in the garbage? I have used this method a very few times. It helped (not totally cured) and no rebluing was needed. Oh, by the way, this "repair" was suggested to me by a more-than-qualified gunsmith.
I was looking for a better solution than mine. I believe I said that in my post. I think Noel had some good suggestions. You had no ideas except "take it to a qualified gunsmith". I can't argue with that suggestion, but it doesn't get you very far out on a limb...
Seriously, I should have mentioned the gentle use of a screwdriver; no hammers allowed. And, I like Noel's ideas better than mine. No grinding, roughing, welding or other damage.
In your opinion, grinding and welding is fine, but "roughing" means the rifle has to be thrown in the garbage? I have used this method a very few times. It helped (not totally cured) and no rebluing was needed. Oh, by the way, this "repair" was suggested to me by a more-than-qualified gunsmith.
I was looking for a better solution than mine. I believe I said that in my post. I think Noel had some good suggestions. You had no ideas except "take it to a qualified gunsmith". I can't argue with that suggestion, but it doesn't get you very far out on a limb...
Seriously, I should have mentioned the gentle use of a screwdriver; no hammers allowed. And, I like Noel's ideas better than mine. No grinding, roughing, welding or other damage.