My soon to be 141 in 35 remington is waiting till some gun smith guys can take it apart for a safety check and heavy duty cleaning. Previous owner was big on oil, small on cleaning
Anyway i have a few questions that may or may not be extremely intelligent.
How often do you break the gun down into assemblies to clean it from the breech end? Every time you use it? At a specific number of shots? Or just when it gets wet or falls in the gut pile by mistake?
What do you base the correct cartridge to use on? Pressure or velocity/energy/bulet weight?
Gamemaster 141
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The Rifleman
You shouldn't ever have to break down a pump action rifle if it is taken care of properly.
As far as the ammo goes, I would purchase what ever shot the best in my rifle. I would not sacrifice accuracy for a little more power.
I found that the best loads in my 760 Gamemaster - 35 Remington was 150 Gr Core lockts that you buy in Wal Mart or any other sporting goods store.
A 35 Remington must have been designed to compete against a 30 - 30 Winchester, because their ballistics is almost the same. Anything out to 150 yards is meat in the pot.
After that, it does not retain the minimum amount of energy to ethically harvest a large game animal.
I would stay away from them light magnum loads. They are nothing but a gimmick. You could do better to have someone reload some of your ammo. But 150 gr PSP bullets - when I owned mine were hard to come by.
As far as the ammo goes, I would purchase what ever shot the best in my rifle. I would not sacrifice accuracy for a little more power.
I found that the best loads in my 760 Gamemaster - 35 Remington was 150 Gr Core lockts that you buy in Wal Mart or any other sporting goods store.
A 35 Remington must have been designed to compete against a 30 - 30 Winchester, because their ballistics is almost the same. Anything out to 150 yards is meat in the pot.
After that, it does not retain the minimum amount of energy to ethically harvest a large game animal.
I would stay away from them light magnum loads. They are nothing but a gimmick. You could do better to have someone reload some of your ammo. But 150 gr PSP bullets - when I owned mine were hard to come by.
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Newton24
I got to cleaning it. Really dirty so i went to take the trigger and stock off it, and hit some issues.
The take down screw had rusted wih the blueing on the reciever. That taken care of i hit a different snag. The trigger and stock will not come out. They seperate about a millimeter before it only wobbles. Ironically it was super tight when i went to take it down.
Upon reinstallation of the take down screw, the reciever and trigger guard are mated as they should be, but still wobble. Do i need to tighten the screw down real heavy or just as tight as bare fingers can do?
The take down screw had rusted wih the blueing on the reciever. That taken care of i hit a different snag. The trigger and stock will not come out. They seperate about a millimeter before it only wobbles. Ironically it was super tight when i went to take it down.
Upon reinstallation of the take down screw, the reciever and trigger guard are mated as they should be, but still wobble. Do i need to tighten the screw down real heavy or just as tight as bare fingers can do?
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Newton24
i notcied also that the slide really really likes a big puddle of oil in the reciever to work, is there a GOOD brand of lubricant for that? If i smear 2 drops of outers TRI CARE it works fine, but after a while it seems to dissapear and jams when open,
when it jams, the trigger goes to the fired position and must be lifted up to "cocked" in order to close slide. However i notice the pin to release the bolt without shooting gun goes limp like a ball point pen button after you extend the ink cartridge out to write. What have i done wrong?
when it jams, the trigger goes to the fired position and must be lifted up to "cocked" in order to close slide. However i notice the pin to release the bolt without shooting gun goes limp like a ball point pen button after you extend the ink cartridge out to write. What have i done wrong?