1894 ejector takedown?

[cthraen]

I would like assistance in the takedown of the ejector mechanism for cleaning purposes only. Before removing from the wood I would like to know what to expect. It is mechanically sound, just requires a good clean after 119 years.

[2shooter]

First does the ejector work ? If so leave it alone you can clean the forend and ejector sear with tooth brush. You take it apart be careful and putting it back together.

[cthraen]

Thanks. Yes, ejectors are fine, timed, and springs good. If I remove the forend screws (2) will the ejector iron just lift out complete?

[dieNusse1]

Yes it will. Not too hard to tear-down but shouldn't be necessary for a good clean/lubricate.

[cthraen]

Thanks. Another question as to hammers. Are there any significant differences in the model 1894 hammers by year of manufacture? I would like to build a small parts collection to serve as replacements. Such items as mainsprings, sear springs, sears, cocking arms, and hammers. Just in case...

[dieNusse1]

Hammers/firing pins in the early years were one piece. As I recall both the '94s and 1900s converted to hammers with separate firing pins about 1904-5.

The early hammers have firing pins that are offset thus there are right and left barrel hammers. Also as a result of different action body sizes for the same gauge some internal components may differ in size, width and/or length.

[ForumAdmin]

Might just be me, but I wouldn't take the stock off a 1894 I've seen a lot of them cracked trying.

[cthraen]

I just finished a repair and cleanup (replaced missing top snap spring and cleaned all internals) on a Rem 1894. Stock separation was not a problem as long as you are aware as to how the sliding safety bar functions and is positioned in the head and frame. At first a bit of a mystery but a little research and the view of the cut-away model proved instructive (Actual physical model with many photos for sale on GunsInternational as I recall). No problems at all in separating stock from receiver.

Getting the fore-end iron separated from the fore-end wood... now that is a delicate matter indeed.

[ForumAdmin]

I just finished a repair and cleanup (replaced missing top snap spring and cleaned all internals) on a Rem 1894. Stock separation was not a problem as long as you are aware as to how the sliding safety bar functions and is positioned in the head and frame. At first a bit of a mystery but a little research and the view of the cut-away model proved instructive (Actual physical model with many photos for sale on GunsInternational as I recall). No problems at all in separating stock from receiver.

Getting the fore-end iron separated from the fore-end wood... now that is a delicate matter indeed.

Hum... Wouldn't that be a nice image to have available in the forums....

[paul harm]

As you look at the underside of the forearm you'll notice two small flat head machine screws, at the top of the action, going through a small rectangular plate. One holds the plunger in place, the other goes into the action. Take notice of the position of the bevel on the plunger - the part that you push on when removing the forearm from the barrels - you want it back the same way when re-assembling. I hold the forearm in my left hand and push the plunger in [ to relive the tension on the screws ]. Remove the two screws and plate under them. You can now relive the tension on the plunger and pull it out. Watch how the spring and plate the plunger goes through are assembled. You can now, if memory serves me correctly, remove the two screws going through the forearm holding the action in place. I've had them apart, but as said, there's really no reason to take one apart. I did find the way it was assembled very ingenious. Good luck. Paul

[paul harm]

As a follow up - what I said was to remove the action that keeps the forearm attached to the barrels. Then you can get to the ejectors. I don't ever remembering removing the ejectors, or messing with them. I have a C and three F grade guns with them, and all have always worked.