Model 95

[Rem1858]

For some reason my thread disappeared after it had been approved. Maybe has something to do with Tapatalk, I don't know what happened. Here it is again and if it did not disappear (also web based forum shows that I have no posts) this is a double post then and can be removed.

Hey all,

I was wondering is there way of knowing manufacture year by the markings on the gun?

Left side of frame has stamping 43 on it, right side has 6 or a 9 if you view it upside down.  Bottom of bottom barrel has a worn out stamping but I would guess 43 also. Top rib REMINGTON ARMS CO. ILION  N Y . Haven't found any other markings yet. Otherwise ok condition, finish is gone 99% allthough in good condition few scrathes and nicks. Inside little bit rusty, but don't see any bad pitting. Bore seem good with good rifling.

Do you see any problems with full disassembly for cleaning? There seems to be quite good tutorial for it on YouTube. I've fully disassembled all my guns, but nothing on the +100 year mark. Oldest one is max 30 years old, allthough I have fully disassembled my Uberti Remington 1858 repro.

[ForumAdmin]

This is the first I approved since your new, the other dups I just tossed, hope that's ok.

Schuyler, Hartley and Graham purchased E. Remington and Sons (top of barrel) in 1988 and formed Remington Arms Co. (top of barrel) Remington Arms Co then merged with Union Metallic Cartridge Co in 1912. (UMC added to top of barrel).

That's the window, I'm not going to defend the order of variations I have no knowledge on that but most believe the "shortline" was first. There's six variations on the address and only a good picture of the top will identify which.

[Rem1858]

That's fine. Tapatalk did not notify that post needs review before publishing. Also did the same when I edited one word that was missing a letter.

Here is some photos of top rib and both sides of the frame where is 43 and 6(?). Could catch that 43 under the barrel on camera.

When did they start using smokeless loads on .41 RF Short? This doesn't seem to have the same corrosion ring that my S&W Model 1 1/2 which was made by the blackpowder ammo that was used. Or atlead I was told so.

[aardq]

Let's start with the basics. The O/U was not called the model 95 until 1922. Before then it was just a Double Derringer.
Your gun is a third model, made 1888 to 1910. It is called by some, a "longline" version because of the length of the top barrel marking.
The number 43 is a batch number not a serial number. That means that it was the 43rd gun made in that particular batch. There is no way to know how many guns were in that batch, or when it was made.
I have no idea what the number 6 means.
I don't know if the original .41rf short was ever loaded with smokeless powder, but the corrosion or lack thereof means nothing. A gun can be well used, and if cleaned and taken care of will not have much if any corrosion. A gun can be shot a few times and never cleaned and 100+ years later there will be a lot of corrosion.
Several sources in the 1960s and 1970s imported smokeless ammo for these guns so it can be found, but at about $75-100 a box. It's not worth the chance that a 100 + year old gun may come apart if shot.
I strongly recommend that you do not disassemble the gun any further, reassembly would require a gunsmith.
Welcome to the wonderful, wacky world of Remingtons.

[Rem1858]

Thank you for the input.

I read somewhere that 41 RF Short started as blackpowder and switched to smokeless later on. I can't remember if it was a credible source or not.

I was thinking of the disassembly because I'm worried or the condition of internals. As there was some rust on accessible surfaces, there might be some on inside too. Doubt that brake cleaner or such would do anything for the rust and afterwards I'd have to get oil everywhere somehow to prevent more rusting.

https://youtu.be/CgrluJ36g38

This makes it look rather simple.

[aardq]

Yup, that makes it look real easy, but as they say, Looks aren't everything. You're dealing with parts that are between 130 and 108 years old. Springs often become brittle over time. They work fine in the gun, but removing and replacing them puts unusual stresses on them. Plus getting the main spring bent right to remove, and then replace, not so easy. Any rust present won't get much worse over your lifetime. Just use a good gun oil a tooth brush, bore brush, and bore patch to clean it and wipe it down.

Unless you have one of the last DDs made in the 1930s, the so called mono-blocks, I would recommend not firing the gun. And, I'd only fire a mono-block a few rounds for test purposes, ie, velocity, penetration, and accuracy. The monos only because they have the most modern steel.

Collectors collect, they don't shoot.
Dan

[Rem1858]

Hey again!

I've been tempted to take it apart but as aardq said the main spring might be a hassle to get back in and I don't want to break the thing.

The reason i've been tempted to take it apart is that I think the firing pin/striker strikes too low on the upper barrel. Of course it might just be wear on the part due to high age of the mechanism. I think I understand how it alternates the point of striker impact and it would be fun to see that cross looking part.

Photo of lower a upper cycle below.

[ForumAdmin]

My Finnish isn't that good, so this was with tapatalk on your Galazy, I wasn't sure that was working anymore and was going to check.

[Rem1858]

Yes it works, tapatalk is great. Just that auto signature is annoying as it always comes back even if you turn it off.

Any ideas on firing pin position?

[aardq]

Looking at your pic, and at one of my DDs, I'd say that the vertical pin position is correct. There isn't a lot of difference from the top and bottom positions. But from your pic, the pin looks like it doesn't protrude far enough for a good primer strike. Checked 2 guns and both pin protrude .055" or .14mm.

[Rem1858]

That photo angle makes it look so but infact it protrudes on both cycles about 1.55mm or 1/16".