Remington 1900 serial no. help

[OldenHoo]

Good evening. I am new to the forum but not to shotguns. I went to purchase a Colt Official Police the other day and ended up buying a 1900 as well. I wanted to know if anyone had any info on my gun based on the serial number. The serial number is Q380483.

The gun shows to be in fair condition but all original. All numbers match on water table, trigger guard (single screw) and barrels. 50% bluing on the 28" steel barrels with no dents, rust or pitting and nice patina. L<K<A1 is stamped on both barrels. The top rib is concave and has a mid bead. Bores are clean and bright. Measured chambers are 2 5/8. The numbers on the lug were X'd out and came to realize that the chokes were reamed out IC on the right and M on the left.

Receiver is clean and free of marks or rust and has no scroll work but stamped RAC. Case color is less than 50% but visible in less worn areas. Barrels lock up very tight and tang safety works normally. Lever is dead center and extractors work normally. Firing pins hit hard (measure 1" apart on center) and I test fired the gun using RST maxi lite #8 2 1/2" 1oz shells. The barrels don't ring like my Parkers but threw a very nice pattern at 30 yards.

The wood is all original. The previous owner had it in his family farm house for generations. Someone along the way had cut the stock and added a Ranger recoil pad in red but length of pull is in optimal range for me for double triggers (14 1/4", 13 1/2"). Forearm locks up tight but shows its age from use. Checkering is swallowing but is still remarkable. Checkering on stock is still deep and is also remarkable.

I was drawn to this gun by its balance and dimensions for a 12 ga. It seems like a great gun for the price I paid for it. It looked to be on a 20 gauge frame when I bought it. I measured the water table at 1 5/8" and bolsters at 2 1/8" and believe from research on this site that this may be a standard frame. Overall length is 44 1/2". This is the exact length of one of my favorite guns, Browning Superlight 20 ga w/ 28" barrels.

It is a great looking gun and am happy to have it. Any other manufacturer info or other insight into this serial number would greatly be appreciated. I tried to provide what I could to help so if I left anything out, please let me know. I plan to shoot sporting clays with it tomorrow using a mix of 15/16 oz and 1 oz #8 2 1/2 shells. Depending on the patterns, I plan to use for S. Georgia quail here and grouse up north. Thanks in advance for any replies.

[dieNusse1]

First -- welcome to the forum.

Your 1900 was made in 1909. Production for all Remington SxSs ended in 1910.

The 1900 was offered in four versions: K, KD, KE and KED where K indicates K grade, E for ejectors and D for damascus barrels. So your gun is stamped K meaning steel barrels and extractors.

[OldenHoo]

First -- welcome to the forum.

Your 1900 was made in 1909. Production for all Remington SxSs ended in 1910.

The 1900 was offered in four versions: K, KD, KE and KED where K indicates K grade, E for ejectors and D for damascus barrels. So your gun is stamped K meaning steel barrels and extractors.

Thank for the reply! I shot 50 rounds out of it today. it points well appears to be 50/50 POA/POI. I really like the way it shoots. It did well on high passing shots and crossers but really excelled on rising, incoming and quartering birds. I should say I did better on those shots with this gun. LOL. It handles very well.

The one thing I noticed is that after discharching the gun, it didn't want to open easily and the rear trigger seemed to stick. I am going to drop it off at Kevin's of Thomasville to be sent out with one of my other Parker's to be cleaned. Hopefully this fixes the issues but also fixes the timing on the two receiver screws.

Does the lever sit in the middle on all these guns? I haven't seen one yet that sits right of center.

[dieNusse1]

Glad to hear all is well with your 1900 performance. I acquired my first KED in '72 while still in grad school. While not a great shot -- for the first 2 - 3 years I could point skyward, pull the trigger and something would fall out of the sky. The gun and I are a perfect match. I've had similar experiences with my other 1900s and 1894s whether standard and small action bodies.

As to your issues: Your gun should have floating firing pins which may hanging up on the barrels when opening. As there are no return springs on the firing pins there isn't much that can be done except cleaning/lubrication. Also it sounds like your trigger may also need some cleaning/lubing. What do you mean "timing of the two receiver screws"?

[OldenHoo]

What I mean by timing on the screws is that they are in the correct position. On the receiver they should be running parrallel to each other and front to back. I'm sure that this doesn't bother most people but owning Parkers has me looking at these details.

The only thing I wish this gun had was some scroll work in the receiver. I think I have a great gun. I'm looking foreard to bird season to start and it's only May. LOL

[dieNusse1]

They left the factory with all screw slots parallel to the gun's centerline. Maybe you can switch the two screws for a better fit. If not, Garland Jackson makes replacement screws. He can make them without the slot so you can cut it where needed.

As for scrolling -- the 1900 K grade did not offer any. If you wanted scrolling, better wood etc. you needed to move up to the Model 1894 which offered many grades. In my opinion the 1900 and 1894 A grade are the same gun as far as quality and performance are concerned. They differ as follows -- 1900 snap on fore end vs Purdy style for the 1894, finer checkering for the 1894, bolsters are proud of the barrels with the 1900 vs even for the 1894 and a flat butt plate for the 1900 after 1906 or so. Also the S/N for the 1900 begin with a 3 while a 1 for the 1894.

There may be more minor differences but they won't make any difference to a clay bird or pheasant.

[OldenHoo]

This is all great information. Thank you!

I like the way the Dollheads sit on the gun. The stock has proud wood where it meets the receiver. This is a field gun that is going to be hunted so function is more important. If I can get the trigger and cocking mechanism working well again (hopefully with a good cleaning) then I'll glad to keep the gun in the rotation.

[dieNusse1]

As I recall the wood should be even with the action body metal. You may have a replacement stock. The S/N should be stamped under the trigger guard tang. Not to say that the replacement stock won't have the S/N stamped but most likely not.

[OldenHoo]

Unless Remington produced their stocks different than Parker, Fox or even my Browing Superpose, all my guns have some proud wood. None of them are even with the receiver walls. The wood fit is very good and I do prefer to see some proud wood on my stocks. I am pretty sure by looking at the shape, checkering, measuring drop and comb that it is not a replacement stock. If proud wood is criteria for a replacement stock then all my guns have them. LOL

[Researcher]

The stock heads all appear pretty closely fitted on my Remington Hammerless Doubles. My 1895 vintage BE-Grade --



1909 vintage 16-gauge KE-Grade --



1906 vintage 12-gauge KE-Grade --

[OldenHoo]

Researcher, the metal to wood fit is the same on mine. I can see the wood sit up on the stock and forend on the second gun which is like mine as well. I prefer this scenario than proud metal.