Two new to me 1900s purchased, adding to the info base

[dieNusse1]

As with most things Remington it seems the exceptions are the rule.

First with regards to #317956 -- according to the Semmer book it was produced early in 1902. When introduced in 1900, two versions were offered -- K grade which has Remington steel barrels and extractors and the KED grade which has damascus steel barrels and ejectors. The barrel stamping shows you have a KD grade which according to Semmer wasn't introduced until 1903. ???? Rounding out the list, the KE version was first offered in 1906.

As an aside here are the list prices for the four versions during 1906 - 09.

K - $30
KE - $35
KD - $35
KED - $40

I don't know what is happening to your extractors when you remove the fore end. Perhaps you could expand your question.

As far as I know, the 1900 did not come with a center bead so maybe it was added later or it was special order.

With regards to #392551 -- it was produced in 1910. The barrel choke stampings of 26 & 35 indicate 64 & 66% of the 511 #8 pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards. This should indicate improved modified so perhaps the barrels have been cut or rechoked. Remington did offer a 28" barrel as well as 30 and 32".

Finally, I'm under the impression that the chamber length was 2 5/8" for 1900's. I've always either used brass cases or plastic when shooting BP and plastic cases for smokeless. The wall thickness for plastic is so much thinner than the old style paper hulls and I don't think it's a problem when using plastic with loads less than 5000 psi. I know of several people who have had chambers reamed to 2 3/4" so that always an option.

As for the broken spring -- fore ends come up on eBay from time to time. Also, try Garland Jackson at 330-669-2138.

[dieNusse1]

I'm still not clear on the extractor issue. It sounds like you actually have ejectors. Is the extractor/ejector one or two pieces? Although the barrels are stamped KD, Semmer documented other KEDs that were stamped KD.

Happy to see that choke measurements for 392551 are not cylinder bore. According to the pellet count the gun was choked IM and full (65 & 70%).

[dieNusse1]

Aha - sounds like we have part of the problem solved. One thing you could try when you want to remove the fore end is to first open the gun, depress the triggers and then close it while the triggers are still depressed. I know this will remove all the tension on the main springs making the weapon unable to fire until it is again cocked by opening . This may also remove any tension of the ejector springs. Worth a try until you find out what the problem might be.

[dieNusse1]

Ejectors for sure. A lot of things to check -- sears on ejector hammers (ears)? -- alinement of cocking levers? -- excessive wear?

Since you have two guns, you may be able to compare the two to note any differences if you choose to disassemble them.

[dieNusse1]

There is a forend on eBay starting at $50 with a buy it now of $76. #381175853251 i think. Take the spring and sell the rest.

[Researcher]

That is a much nicer than average early KED-Grade. I strongly suggest taking it to a professional rather than risk messing it up. What part of the country are you in? Perhaps we could recommend someone.

[dieNusse1]

I have a bid on the forearm but would be willing to sell the spring should I win. I need the wood.

[2shooter]

call Jake 330-669-2138 he can help you with ejector problem.
Does the ejectors work when gun is fired? When you take the forend off did you dry fire gun?

[2shooter]

I agree the one with the broken spring just needs a spring. The other one 317556 needs to be look at carefully probably has parts broken or missing.