Model 14 - Dissassembly
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Model 14 - Dissassembly
American Rifleman - 1980
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- Model 14 American Rifleman disassembly (clean copy) p1.JPG (1.97 MiB) Viewed 36464 times
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- Model 14 American Rifleman disassembly (clean copy) p2.JPG (2.8 MiB) Viewed 36450 times
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Do you have a rifle available or only this drawing to reference?
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Regards from Australia.
Those drawings would have been helpful recently in re assembling a 44-40 Model 14 1/2 that had seen the last 30 years in a sack in a friends barn. I would appreciate advice if anyone knows how to fix the firing pin extension to the striker?
The drawings will be great for reference, but the pin seems to be friction fit in the nose of the striker, and does not remain in place.
Also have to source replacement woodwork if it is available, rather than making from scratch.
Thanks in advance
Garry.
Those drawings would have been helpful recently in re assembling a 44-40 Model 14 1/2 that had seen the last 30 years in a sack in a friends barn. I would appreciate advice if anyone knows how to fix the firing pin extension to the striker?
The drawings will be great for reference, but the pin seems to be friction fit in the nose of the striker, and does not remain in place.
Also have to source replacement woodwork if it is available, rather than making from scratch.
Thanks in advance
Garry.
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Hello everyone, new here,'cuz I have a burning question, or (two?)
I just picked up a model 14 32 Rem at the LGS on a consignment sale.
Serial code: PU, June 1927? It has nothing to do with the "REP" or single "M" right?
Serial 104XXX
A very slight crack at the rear of the receiver, fixable for sure. Wood is otherwise in excellent condition. I'd call the metal at 80%, some wear, no rust. rear sight is gone, dovetail nicely filled in, aftermarket front post with a receiver sight I've never seen. Typical screw windage and elevation but the adjustment screws are half domes on top.
I have printed everything I can find on the internet, and near as I can tell, nothing is missing, although filthy inside.
I have noticed two things:
1. The magazine follower comes into the action bar too far. It comes in and gets under the loading gate so that I can not push the loading gate down. If i push the follower back up into the magazine tube and then depress the loading gate, the follower wants to pop out above the loading gate. I thought sure a part had to be missing, but according to schematics, no.
Could it have been assembled incorrectly? I have it apart on workbench now.
2. The magazine tube, when screwed into the action bar is akimbo about 5 deg. or less, just enough to eyeball, and just enough that it needs some pressure to push it into the magazine ring. Can I carefully bend it back a bit?
I would appreciate some (knowledgeable) advice here. I hope I didn't spend $300 clams on a wall hanger!
Ken
I just picked up a model 14 32 Rem at the LGS on a consignment sale.
Serial code: PU, June 1927? It has nothing to do with the "REP" or single "M" right?
Serial 104XXX
A very slight crack at the rear of the receiver, fixable for sure. Wood is otherwise in excellent condition. I'd call the metal at 80%, some wear, no rust. rear sight is gone, dovetail nicely filled in, aftermarket front post with a receiver sight I've never seen. Typical screw windage and elevation but the adjustment screws are half domes on top.
I have printed everything I can find on the internet, and near as I can tell, nothing is missing, although filthy inside.
I have noticed two things:
1. The magazine follower comes into the action bar too far. It comes in and gets under the loading gate so that I can not push the loading gate down. If i push the follower back up into the magazine tube and then depress the loading gate, the follower wants to pop out above the loading gate. I thought sure a part had to be missing, but according to schematics, no.
Could it have been assembled incorrectly? I have it apart on workbench now.
2. The magazine tube, when screwed into the action bar is akimbo about 5 deg. or less, just enough to eyeball, and just enough that it needs some pressure to push it into the magazine ring. Can I carefully bend it back a bit?
I would appreciate some (knowledgeable) advice here. I hope I didn't spend $300 clams on a wall hanger!
Ken
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Ken!
Since your post is old you probably have solved your problems by now.
Based on the description of your rifle, it has been messed with by someone that didn't have any idea as to what they were doing but that is hardly uncommon.
With respect to the follower going in too far, it is undersize and you need to locate another........good luck with that.
You can readily bend a magazine tube but best keep it screwed in the action bar when you are doing it. My system is to place the tube in a well padded vise using thick soft leather the gently bend it, might take a couple of attempts before you get it right. As far as it being slightly off-center, I have seen this too and in fact have seen one tube that was re-drilled for the magazine screw. If I had a bent tube that was off-center I would simply replace it, tubes are not that hard to find......it "might" also be "part" of the problem with your follower passing up under the loading gate.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Since your post is old you probably have solved your problems by now.
Based on the description of your rifle, it has been messed with by someone that didn't have any idea as to what they were doing but that is hardly uncommon.
With respect to the follower going in too far, it is undersize and you need to locate another........good luck with that.
You can readily bend a magazine tube but best keep it screwed in the action bar when you are doing it. My system is to place the tube in a well padded vise using thick soft leather the gently bend it, might take a couple of attempts before you get it right. As far as it being slightly off-center, I have seen this too and in fact have seen one tube that was re-drilled for the magazine screw. If I had a bent tube that was off-center I would simply replace it, tubes are not that hard to find......it "might" also be "part" of the problem with your follower passing up under the loading gate.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Jim Peterson
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
The firing pin should go back about 5/8" then cock or lock into position, it doesn't go back easily because there is one helluva spring inside but should readily engage. If it is not engaging there is the possibility that the sear lock is NOT doing its job. The sear lock is held into position by a pin that is easily removed, underneath the "sear lock" is a plunger/spring that work when the bolt is cycled. The sear lock "could" be damaged/missing or the plunger could be damaged. The lock has a flat base on it as you look at the bottom of the bolt and should not move freely but rather needs to be pushed against the spring plunger which are parts that are not easy to find and are slightly different than those used in the Model 14. They are around however.
Its darn near impossible to diagnose your situation on the forum but hope I have given you some direction. Push comes to shove you can send it to me and I can check it out. It sounds to me that "if" a repair is required it would NOT be necessary to remove the sear pin which is an absolute terror to do, they were "pressed" in to stay. I will again state "don't try to remove the sear pin unless you have adult supervision", it is very difficult and if you are successful the sear, plunger, and mainspring will exit at an almost lethal velocity. The sear lock however is held in by a separate and easy to remove pin.............maybe a bit too easy, its possible it came out at some point in time when the bolt was out of the rifle which is the only way the ejector rod could have come detached from the ejector. If the sear lock pin came out, the sear lock would have fallen close at hand but the plunger/spring may have shot out and have been lost. If the sear lock and pin were replaced without the plunger/spring, the bolt will NOT engage with the sear.
This is the best I can do without having it on my bench at which time it would probably be a quick fix.
Take care & behave!
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Its darn near impossible to diagnose your situation on the forum but hope I have given you some direction. Push comes to shove you can send it to me and I can check it out. It sounds to me that "if" a repair is required it would NOT be necessary to remove the sear pin which is an absolute terror to do, they were "pressed" in to stay. I will again state "don't try to remove the sear pin unless you have adult supervision", it is very difficult and if you are successful the sear, plunger, and mainspring will exit at an almost lethal velocity. The sear lock however is held in by a separate and easy to remove pin.............maybe a bit too easy, its possible it came out at some point in time when the bolt was out of the rifle which is the only way the ejector rod could have come detached from the ejector. If the sear lock pin came out, the sear lock would have fallen close at hand but the plunger/spring may have shot out and have been lost. If the sear lock and pin were replaced without the plunger/spring, the bolt will NOT engage with the sear.
This is the best I can do without having it on my bench at which time it would probably be a quick fix.
Take care & behave!
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Jim Peterson
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
I am missing part #47, magizine screw, could make one but cant figure the tread pitch, size seems to be #5 but not 5-40 or 5-44, about .125 long, can anyone help. Sorry cal is 38-40, serial number 44564
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Thank you all for this thread!
I took apart to clean my first year Model 141 S/N 67xx in .35 Rem, it was my grandfather's gun on my dad's side. I know it hasn't been cleaned in at least 50 years, my dad never did - and I've only shot it twice, but never broke it down. Someone at least tried, the take-down screw has some minor screwdriver wear.
It was not all that dirty, but I accidentally dropped the breech block onto a tile floor when putting it together. This must have decocked the thing, and a plate came off the side, and a small rod - anyway, thanks to this thread I was able to get it back together, re-cock the firing pin, and reassemble the gun. I was afraid I broke it! Now it cycles smooth... thanks again!
I took apart to clean my first year Model 141 S/N 67xx in .35 Rem, it was my grandfather's gun on my dad's side. I know it hasn't been cleaned in at least 50 years, my dad never did - and I've only shot it twice, but never broke it down. Someone at least tried, the take-down screw has some minor screwdriver wear.
It was not all that dirty, but I accidentally dropped the breech block onto a tile floor when putting it together. This must have decocked the thing, and a plate came off the side, and a small rod - anyway, thanks to this thread I was able to get it back together, re-cock the firing pin, and reassemble the gun. I was afraid I broke it! Now it cycles smooth... thanks again!
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Speedbump!
None of the threads on these old rifles have a currently used equivalent!
The part you are missing is called the "magazine screw", its only purpose is to keep the magazine tube in place. They are now impossible to find and about half the parts guns I purchase it seems to be missing.
I do have a few but the trouble of packing that tiny screw up, labeling it, and driving to the post office tend to make the pricing rather obnoxious. If you still want one you can contact me directly at: nambujim@charlotte.twcbc.com
When I first got into these rifles 40+ years ago my dad had a Hills Brothers coffee can full of old electrical and machine screws some of which were passed on from his dad. I found a lot of old nickle plated telephone screws from the 30's that had the same thread, just had to cut to length, and although it was an annoying job it got the job done.
The magazine screw, action bar cover, and carrier dog spring are the most missing or broken parts on these rifles...............along with cracked stocks and fore ends with the latter being almost the norm.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
None of the threads on these old rifles have a currently used equivalent!
The part you are missing is called the "magazine screw", its only purpose is to keep the magazine tube in place. They are now impossible to find and about half the parts guns I purchase it seems to be missing.
I do have a few but the trouble of packing that tiny screw up, labeling it, and driving to the post office tend to make the pricing rather obnoxious. If you still want one you can contact me directly at: nambujim@charlotte.twcbc.com
When I first got into these rifles 40+ years ago my dad had a Hills Brothers coffee can full of old electrical and machine screws some of which were passed on from his dad. I found a lot of old nickle plated telephone screws from the 30's that had the same thread, just had to cut to length, and although it was an annoying job it got the job done.
The magazine screw, action bar cover, and carrier dog spring are the most missing or broken parts on these rifles...............along with cracked stocks and fore ends with the latter being almost the norm.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Jim Peterson
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Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
I need parts...Action bar cover model 14. anyone have a connection?
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
I have both an early one and the later smooth one listed on Gunbroker.
The early ones were used on rifles under "about" 20,000 and the smooth ones until about 123,000. Forgot what I'm asking but the older one is about $56 and the smooth one about $75 plus $8 postage in a small priority box, otherwise the post office will find a way of crushing them.
This is the most broken part on the rifle, the flange is very delicate, and they are sold AS-IS because unless you know what you are doing during the installation you can either bend the cover or break the flange. Mine are solid.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
The early ones were used on rifles under "about" 20,000 and the smooth ones until about 123,000. Forgot what I'm asking but the older one is about $56 and the smooth one about $75 plus $8 postage in a small priority box, otherwise the post office will find a way of crushing them.
This is the most broken part on the rifle, the flange is very delicate, and they are sold AS-IS because unless you know what you are doing during the installation you can either bend the cover or break the flange. Mine are solid.
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Jim Peterson
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Well, I have a 141, but have found this information exchange on the 14 and 14 1/2 to be very interesting!! Thanks to all who posted here. I especially liked the diagram...
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
I am looking for contact info for NambuJim, as I would like to send him my 141 for repair.
Thank you, Jim585
Thank you, Jim585
Re: Model 14 - Dissassembly
Jim!
I send you my email address!
What is the serial of your rifle, what seems to be the problem, and what caliber is it?
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
I send you my email address!
What is the serial of your rifle, what seems to be the problem, and what caliber is it?
Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC
Jim Peterson
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- Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2018 8:03 am
Re: Model 14 1/2 jammed open
Hi, I bought a 14-1/2 in 38-40 but the slide is stuck in the open position so I can't disassemble. Any tips? Thanks.