There is no take down guide - because there is no user serviceable parts inside that an average person can assemble and disassemble without some specialized tools.
You saved your money to purchase this jewel and now you want to take it apart and scuff it all up.
If you had a gun vise and machinist tools, you could clamp the body of the action in the vise and you could heat the tube with a torch - to release the LocTite and then you could dissassemble it if you had a spanner wrench and a punch of the right diameter.
When the tube turns, the pump action advances towards the muzzle of the rifle. When it is completely off the screw - the bolt will come out of the action, along with the action rods.
Here is a video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B47bQxZxR-0
New(to me) 760
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oneoldsap
Re: New(to me) 760
If you go to StevesPages.com , you will find the manual that you need . Disassembly of the 760 isn't rocket surgery by any means ! They have to be disassembled to do a thorough cleaning . There are places that rust gets into because they aren't accessable to regular cleaning . I specialize in these rifles , be careful when turning off the action tube . It can be done with a tight fitting punch , but a special wrench , that engages three of the holes in the tube is preferred . You can egg the holes out , if not careful , heating the base of the tube can help if it doesn't want to loosen . don't try to loosen the round nut at the muzzle end of the action tube , it stays on the tube and is staked in place . That thing between the barrel and tube that unknowing people call a strut or whatever is actually a brush guard , ( carried over from the Model 141 ) and is not fastened to the barrel or the action tube . Once the action tube is loosened , just grasp the whole business and wiggle and pull , the action bar , bolt , dustcover and barrell will come right out . While you have it apart for a good cleaning , polish the chamber and wax all the blued parts before you re assemble it , to prevent rust . If you want to remove the forend , be very careful , do not clamp forend and turn nut , the forend might split (btdt) . If you'd like to PM me , I'll be as much help as I can . I have a .300 Savage that was built in 54 . I'd really like a 35 that was built in 1980 ! I had one but rechambered it to .358 Win. . 200Gr Core-Lokts are my bullet of choice for the .35 Rem. , if you're going to shoot 150s , you might as well use a 30-30 , better ballistics !