New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Topics related to Pre - 1898 Remington Rifles
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Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

Greetings to all. I recently bought this rifle from a local online auction really inexpensively. Yes it is rough but it was a lowball impulse bid that happened to be the only bid.

I forgot to take pictures of the complete rifle before starting disassembly but the full length Infantry wood is rough but decent shape with only a missing cleaning rod and a broken middle barrel band retaining spring as it's major issues.

The metal on the other hand is in sad shape.
It was listed as a 52-60 caliber but as there never was such a caliber I will be making a chamber cast as soon as I get it disassembled.

There is no markings on the receiver that I can find other than the batch number on tang and trigger housing.

On the barrel under the rear band is a V over a conjoined HP and the bands themselves have what look to be a B on them.

The rear stock screw and the button screw came loose easily however the action pins will not move even with a little judicious use of a soft face hammer and the screws for the trigger housing will not budge either. (Pictures taken before any disassembly attempts so screws are as received) Next step is to get some penetrating oil and give it a few days soak.

Bore is pretty rough but rifling is still prominent. Bore at the muzzle is roughly .501".

Any information about this project will be greatly appreciated. ImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

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stanforth
Posts: 173
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:56 am
Location: Oxford England

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by stanforth »

I can't help with your questions but look forward to this progresses .
Good luck and a happy new year.
Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

On closer inspection of the butt stock I found this stamped on the right side. Due to the ding next to it I can't tell if it is just the 2 digit number or if there might have been a third.
Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

PicImage

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Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

Doing some more research, it seems to be a NY based rifle as the breech block tab is at 90* as the groves on the block and hammer are included within a shield outline.

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wlw-19958
Posts: 159
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:21 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by wlw-19958 »

Hi There,

It is possible that you have a NYS rolling block. If it is, it should
have the special safety feature that drops the hammer to half-cock
when the breech block is closed. The NYS rolling blocks were made
in 50-70 caliber. A very few were purchased by the city of Buffalo
and they were in 45-70 caliber.

In the later years, left over parts were used in other rifles. I have
a musketoon in 50-70 with the NYS type breech block but does not
have the safety feature.

Cheers!
Webb
stanforth
Posts: 173
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:56 am
Location: Oxford England

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by stanforth »

I am embarassed to say that I missed that. You are correct.I have one that I used to shoot a lot and is one of my favourate Rolling Blocks. It has a silver oval presentation plate inscribed "PRESENTED BY WE ROLFE.
Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

So what differences are there internally? The only breakdowns I have been able to find are for a standard rolling block.

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Dieselbuilder
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2022 5:10 pm

Re: New member due to latest acquisition needing ID help.

Post by Dieselbuilder »

Well, penetrating oil helped me make it a little farther in my journey. I was able to get the pivot pins out and get the block and hammer removed, however the trigger housing screws are still being stubborn and not budging at all. I even tried an impact driver to no results.

After seeing the condition of the internals after getting the block and hammer out of the way I am not too surprised. So a few more days soaking and try again.

I couldn't get it to show up on camera, but I was able to make out a couple digits that remain of the roll mark on the tang but it seems most of it has been worn/rusted away.Image

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