Correct CCH/Bluing treatment of all pieces of 1894

[Canvasback]

I am beginning the process of rehabilitating a couple of well used (and abused) 1894 BE with Damascus barrels. I have Semmers book but could not find a complete answer to this question. He notes the receiver is CCH'd and the trigger guard and top lever are typically CCH'd if a lower grade (assuming A & B) or blued if a higher grade.

So I am trying to find out how ALL the metal parts were originally finished....which were CCH'd, which were blued, what kind of bluing, which were just polished, etc. Any help or information would be most appreciated.

As I also have a 1900 so any information on that would also be valued.

Thank you.

[Researcher]

On my 1895 vintage BE-Grade the trigger guard and top lever were blued, similar to my much later CEO-Grade. Whether it is carbonia, nitre or fire blued I'm not expert enough on these finishes to tell.

[dieNusse1]

I seem to recall that the trigger guard and top lever came both ways - blued and CCH. Other than the triggers, all of other the external metal parts were CCH (action body, trigger plate, forearm iron and all screws). Steel barrels were blued and damascus barrels were rust blued. I've refinished several damascus barrels and it's a long affair but worth it. If you're not up to doing it yourself, there are shops out there that do nice work. I do my barrels but send the parts for CCH out because I don't have the equipment needed.

One thing to keep in mind is, as I've been told/warned, the CCH process MAY warp the part. I haven't had any problems but you should should question the person doing the work about this possibility before committing to the work.

If you like, contact me and I'll supply the name of the shop in NY that I've used.

[Canvasback]

Thank you gentlemen. DieNusse1, I have had a few guns case hardened already and am VERY confident of the skill of the person who is doing it. But I appreciate the alert and offer to suggest a good shop. The only beef I have with the craftsman I have used is the time line can be very long.

I can see on the forend that the hidden metal was CCH'd. And I expect the exposed bit that runs from the tip (where the button is) down to the screw was also. But I am wondering about the button itself. Any thoughts?