More photos of #2 NYS RB.
More photos of #2 NYS RB.
Tthis also just acquired NYS RB is in the blue and looks like it was hot blued at one time and then cold reblued over the original Blue using cold blue.
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Re: More photos of #2 NYS RB.
A few more of rifle number 2 also a NYS RB
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Dick Hosmer
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Re: More photos of #2 NYS RB.
Sadly, it also appears to have spent quite a bit of hard time on a wire wheel, and/or a buffing wheel, somewhere in the refinishing process.
Re: More photos of #2 NYS RB.
Mr. Hosmer: Thanks much on this rifle. I have shot this and it is a great shooter. Can you give me some comments on my chemically removing the re-blue and using hand polishing with bronze wool and compound to try to remove the lazy grinder wire brush marks and bring attempt to bring back the original tinned finish? I have previously done some of this in the Summer NRA Gunsmith workshops at Trinidad CC in Colorado and if there is any tinned finish still there it should come back. If I find that there is no tinned finish left then I will be ScXXed. It would then be down to the in the white, removing all the remaining finnish which can be a bummer and lots of hand work.
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Dick Hosmer
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:15 pm
- Contact:
Re: More photos of #2 NYS RB.
Kinda walking the tightrope here - I am by no means a "finish expert." I do try NOT to acquire buffed (or Naval Jellied for that matter) guns. Please do not take that as being snobbish - as I have NO problem at all with light period rust or unpolished pitting. I'm not a "mint" collector at all.
The most I ever do to clean a gun is the solvent and wool treatment - well, that's not exactly true - I have been known to use a single-edge razor blade, but ONLY on HARDENED, FLAT surfaces, flooded with solvent. But, I've been doing that for 45 years and feel that I can do it without causing harm.
I have never attempted removal/reversal of a previously-applied refinish, and I'd probably advise against it. I try to only acquire guns that I feel I can live with pretty much as I find them.
We are discussing (at least) two guns here, right? The buffed/blued one and the "tin-plated" one? It is easy to see what was done to the former, but I'm still of the opinion (just looking at the pics) that the latter was not plated.
I hope that helps.
The most I ever do to clean a gun is the solvent and wool treatment - well, that's not exactly true - I have been known to use a single-edge razor blade, but ONLY on HARDENED, FLAT surfaces, flooded with solvent. But, I've been doing that for 45 years and feel that I can do it without causing harm.
I have never attempted removal/reversal of a previously-applied refinish, and I'd probably advise against it. I try to only acquire guns that I feel I can live with pretty much as I find them.
We are discussing (at least) two guns here, right? The buffed/blued one and the "tin-plated" one? It is easy to see what was done to the former, but I'm still of the opinion (just looking at the pics) that the latter was not plated.
I hope that helps.
Re: More photos of #2 NYS RB.
If you remove the wire brush marks it will in effect remove more metal getting further way from the original dimensions.wsmrto wrote:Mr. Hosmer: Thanks much on this rifle. I have shot this and it is a great shooter. Can you give me some comments on my chemically removing the re-blue and using hand polishing with bronze wool and compound to try to remove the lazy grinder wire brush marks and bring attempt to bring back the original tinned finish? I have previously done some of this in the Summer NRA Gunsmith workshops at Trinidad CC in Colorado and if there is any tinned finish still there it should come back. If I find that there is no tinned finish left then I will be ScXXed. It would then be down to the in the white, removing all the remaining finnish which can be a bummer and lots of hand work.
Restore tomorrow.. you can never go back.