Remington Society

I had a question about that as well. I tried to post it on the forum several days ago but it seems to have not gone through. Anyway, I have several '94's and 1900's - all 12's. One 1900 (KED - 1910 production) is smaller than the rest - about 1/8" narrower across both the water table and bolste...

I had another thought about black powder. You asked about shot cups. Pure cups with fiber over powder wads might work ok but my experience with one piece plastic wads is that they tend to melt leaving strips of plastic in the barrel. Don't think it's dangerous but it's not a good situation either. O...

As I recall, the general rule of thumb when loading black powder shot shells is to use equal volumes of powder and shot. I've loaded 12's for years and it works fine. I started with plastic cases but then moved on to brass because the plastic cases seem to develop holes in the side when used a coupl...

To determine the gauge you need to measure the width of the bolsters. (Heavy 10 -- 2 9/16"), (10 & 12 - 2 3/8"), (16 - 2 5/16")

Since all other measurements are the same for the regular 10 and the 12, I assume a 12 barrel could be mounted on a 10 frame.

If I'm reading the S/N correctly (18781) it would appear that you have an '85 rather than an '82 according to Semmer's book. The '82 S/Ns ran from 1000 - ~17000.

What you appear to have is a model 1889 double made in 1901. They were offered in three grades - #! with plain steel barrels, #2 (better) with twist steel barrels and the best grade, #3, with damascus barrels. Grade 4 and above were special order. The grade number should be stamped on the water tabl...

Reloading can be a enjoyable activity while saving a bit of money and discovering loads that best fit your needs. As to the how - follow established loading data, double check used hulls and never reuse wads. Safety first!

Choke tubes are available for turkey shooting and I seem to remember ones available for slugs. I guess you could shoot sans any tube but that may bugger the threads. (???)

The trigger plate is a tight fit to the action body. A rap or two with a plastic or rubber hammer can be used to free the trigger plate. The stock will be easy to remove once the trigger plate is loose.

What are you interested in doing? From memory, to get into the action body first remove the trigger guard by removing the screw(s) on the tang and then rotate the guard counter clock-wise. Next remove the screw located under the break lever and the screws located in the trigger plate. At this point ...

Many parts for the '94 will interchange with 1900 parts. In the case of the trigger guard, there are two types - one screw and two screw versions attaching the guard tang to the stock. The difference between the '94 and 1900 guards is that the s/n was engraved on the '94 tang being while stamped on ...

Sorry to report that the right hammer is not a '82 and I'm not completely sure the left one is correct either.

Good luck

I have just purchased '89 & '82 parts which are still in the mail. I can't tell from the pics whether the right hammer is correct or its' condition. Let you know when I can examine them.

I have some '82 parts coming. Still need a hammer?

I don't 100% understand what your question is but I'll jump in anyway. The lever should operate whether or not the safety is engaged. As a safety feature, opening the gun will move the safety to safe position. As to "float", I assume you mean that the lever will not return to center positi...