Model 1100 Advice Please.

[rWt]

Hello all and Happy Thanksgiving!

I am new here but not new to Remington firearms.

My introduction to Remington occurred in 1959. I turned 12 and received a Nylon 66 as a birthday present from my favorite uncle, who was a VP with Remington.

Over the years he gave me target rifles that had been displayed at Camp Perry and shotguns with fine wood and, in some cases, gold inlays. I shot NRA postal matches as a kid and shot on high school rifle teams with Remington target rifles.

My first round of skeet was shot in 1961 at Lordship, the Remington facility. A few years later I was given my first 1100.

My collection was left with my parents when I went to Vietnam in 1968. They had a break in and all were stolen. None were ever recovered. Hopefully, they found good homes.

Over the years my taste in shotguns migrated to European side by side game guns. Even so, I have always harbored a fondness for the venerable 1100 and the bullet-proof 870 Wingmaster-especially those built when great wood, checkering, metal fit and polishing and bluing were common characteristics of a rightfully proud American company. I have decided that I have been without an 1100 too long.

Please assist me as I begin looking for that 1100.

I would like to find a great example. It will be a shotgun I use-mostly in the field. 20 gauge with 28” and possibly 26”barrels. Here is where I start running into questions that my research so far has not answered.

I never owned a lightweight version and I need help in understanding, assessing and identifying them. Specific questions I have include the following:

1. First, is there a great reference book that shows all the variations, markings, wood options and checkering patterns? If so, what is the title/author/version information?

2. What is the difference between a Lt and LW. 1100? If I desire a lighter weight and well-balanced gun shooting 2 ¾” shells is one recommended over the other? I am a bird hunter and shoot clays only occasionally. I walk a lot and shoot a little except for the very occasional dove hunt. How are the receivers marked (Note-I have now looked at photos and see the receiver markings)? Are there any other markings to look for?

3. Besides the typical auction sites, are there sources for these fine shotguns I need to be familiar with?

4. Are there recommended sources for older OEM parts and barrels?

5. What other questions do I need to ask and answer?

Thank you for any advice you can give me.

[Virginian]

Welcome. I have been an 1100 aficionado since 1963, so I may be able to help.

1. First, is there a great reference book that shows all the variations, markings, wood options and checkering patterns? If so, what is the title/author/version information?
Not really. This link is a good overview:
http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/journals/1100
Kuhnhausen's book, "The Remington Shotguns" has a ton of good technical information, but I must admit I differ with him on some small points.
2. What is the difference between a Lt and LW. 1100? If I desire a lighter weight and well-balanced gun shooting 2 ¾” shells is one recommended over the other? I am a bird hunter and shoot clays only occasionally. I walk a lot and shoot a little except for the very occasional dove hunt. How are the receivers marked (Note-I have now looked at photos and see the receiver markings)? Are there any other markings to look for?
There have been three 20 gauge Model 1100 configurations. The first was built on the 12 gauge sized receiver, the second was the LW, and the third was the LT. Current guns are LTs whether they still have it stamped on them or not. The LW was built on the 28 gauge receiver and employed a short barrel tang with the ejector riveted into the inside sidewall of the receiver like the 870. This was superseded by the LT in 1977. The LT employs a long barrel tang like the 12 gauge with the ejector nub in that, and had a scalloped ejection port. This was done because some LWs experienced receiver cracks. I have never seen that, but Wayne Leek said so, so that's that to me. Standard size 20 gauge receiver serial numbers have an X (standard) or an N (Magnum) serial number suffix. The LW and LT receivers had a K (standard) or U (Magnum) serial number suffix. They have recently changed all this, but fear not, a new one is an LT. No factory barrels are available for an LW, and they never made RemChoke barrels for them either. Short version is, you want an LT. Since 1977 the only differences are basically style. All the parts are the same except I think they have gone to the 12 gauge size 11-87 type extractor. If you get an older barrel you would need to file the notch wider to fit. I have a first generation LT20 Magnum made in made in 1978, now fitted with a straight grip stock set (just because) and a 2-3/4" 28" barrel fitted with choke tubes. I still also have the original 28" 3" chamber Full barrel, and a 26" Skeet barrel that I need to go ahead and sell because I haven't used it in 20 years. This gun probably gets shot more than all my others combined. I flat love it. If you want a new gun, the current 1100 Sporting models are nice, and they have recently released an American Classic model which is pretty flashy, but I like it. There are also plenty of like new models available on GunBroker, GunsAmerica, or GunsInternational. Decide which look/style you like best and go from there.
They also made a Special Field series with 23" and 21" barrels. They will take the regular barrels, but the fore ends are unique and shorter because the magazine tube is shorter. If you ever might want to replace a stock and fore end that can be an issue.
There have been a couple of Ducks Unlimited versions if you like those.
I got a first generation model because I like that style the best. I have shot skeet, sporting clays, pasture clays, ducks, pheasant, quail, and a ton of doves with mine. It points like a magic wand for me.

3. Besides the typical auction sites, are there sources for these fine shotguns I need to be familiar with?
Most of the ones I have seen in gun stores or at gun shows were not in as good a condition as available on the auction sites. Cabelas and BassPro often have them, as well as some other large gun stores. A few years ago Academy had a special run of "field grade" models with a matte satin finish for less money that were not bad looking guns.

4. Are there recommended sources for older OEM parts and barrels?
You can get parts and barrels from Remington, Brownell's, Midway, and ebay has a lot also.

5. What other questions do I need to ask and answer?
I don't know.

Thank you for any advice you can give me.

[rWt]

Thank you very much, Virginian!

Am I correct that to at least come close to date of manufacture that you use a combination of the letter prefixes and suffixes that are referenced in a post here? And, that the serial number is on the barrel???? In the photos I looked at on Cabela's site I didn't see any letters or numbers on the receiver? Is it on the tang perhaps?

Thus, If I were also interested in finding an early post 1977 LT that I should look for an N or P prefix?

Following on that line--I gather you identify barrels that will fit the same way? No issues getting a 2 3/4" barrel to fit a magnum model? And, did that barrel come with choke tubes or did you send it to Briley? Does a vent rib or plain barrel work best?

Where did you find a straight stock? That's what I have on my SXS's.

What does your 1100 weigh?

Thanks again! Hope you were able to enjoy some Virginia Gentlemen yesterday!

[Virginian]

You are quite welcome.

Am I correct that to at least come close to date of manufacture that you use a combination of the letter prefixes and suffixes that are referenced in a post here? And, that the serial number is on the barrel???? In the photos I looked at on Cabela's site I didn't see any letters or numbers on the receiver? Is it on the tang perhaps?
The date codes are on most barrels. Some have none. No serial number on barrels. The combination of the date code on the barrel and the serial number will tell you if it is even possible that it is the original barrel. The serial number is on the left side of the receiver. Some pictures of guns for sale online they blot it out.

Thus, If I were also interested in finding an early post 1977 LT that I should look for an N or P prefix? Prefix N began in 1978 and could be either a first or second generation gun - they changed in 1979. Prefix P began in 1985 and ran until 1990.

Following on that line--I gather you identify barrels that will fit the same way? No issues getting a 2 3/4" barrel to fit a magnum model? And, did that barrel come with choke tubes or did you send it to Briley? Does a vent rib or plain barrel work best?
You have to look at the barrels to be sure they fit. Most earlier ones said LT or LW on them, but the LTs have the distinctive long tang. 2-3/4" barrels will fit on a Magnum, and vice versa, but if you shoot a lot of heavy loads watch the buffer because the two gas ports in the 2-3/4" barrel can sometimes get the bolt going too fast. Magnum barrel may not work with the standard action sleeve. The only difference is the gas port(s) and the action sleeve. The Magnum 20 is a lot pickier with loads than the 12 gauges in my experience. I sent my 2-3/4" barrel to Mike Orlen for tubes because a RemChoke barrel is heavier and I like the feel of the old fixed choke barrels. I will vouch for Mike or Brileys. Others may be as good, but I know those two are good. Mike is much cheaper and faster in my experience, but he cannot do everything Briley can. I think a vent rib is the only way to go. They quit making plain field barrels decades ago now.

Where did you find a straight stock? That's what I have on my SXS's.
Lucked into it on ebay. It's actually for an 11-87, but I installed a small spacer inside the fore end. That's what I have on my SxS too. Like a pistol grip on a heavy duck gun or a pump, but a straight grip on most anything else.

What does your 1100 weigh?
I forget, seriously. Close to 7 pounds I think. It does not feel at all heavy to me, but it is not a Franchi 48 either.

Thanks again! Hope you were able to enjoy some Virginia Gentlemen yesterday!
No. Ate at my daughter's and they had champagne. I survived.

[rWt]

Thanks!

Is yours a M prefix?

How does one distinguish between the post 77 1st, second and any subsequent generations?

In addition to Mike, have you found other great 1100 gunsmiths?

Are there certain parts that you keep on hand because you know their failure or wear potential?

[Virginian]

Thanks!

Is yours a M prefix?
Yes. M prefix, U suffix.

How does one distinguish between the post 77 1st, second and any subsequent generations?
First gen LT has the simple scroll rollmarking and simple fleur de lis checkering pattern like every 1100 since 1963. Second gen same basic patterns but much busier. Uncheckered stripe across the pistol grip is an easy spot. After that about 1990 it starts getting confusing because some had no rollmarking, others had very very busy rollmarking and/or laser engraving. After the 20 gauge 11-87 came along the 1100 took on the target role with the Sporting models.

In addition to Mike, have you found other great 1100 gunsmiths?
No. I used to work on guns, gun mechanic, never called myself a gunsmith because I had not one artistic bone in my body. I have worked on many, but on fourteen personal 1100s and 11-87s I have had to replace one extractor in 1982. I have replaced some of the firing pin springs with the new (better) style.

Are there certain parts that you keep on hand because you know their failure or wear potential?
I have some left over parts, but other than replacing the firing pin spring if it's an old style the odds are any part you have won't be the one you may eventually need. I have spare O rings - too cheap not to, but I have never had one fail in service. I have ruined one talking while assembling the gun and two more rolling over them with the chair on concrete floor. The one in my '63 has been there since about 1967 when I replaced the original metal V ring. Call it a test in progress.

[rWt]

Thanks, again!

I don't shoot 20 ga-having SXS's in 12 and 28 gauges. Thus-in part-my interest in a 20 ga version. I gather that you haven't needed the 3" barrel?

Is there merit to finding a 3" 1100 LT?

[Virginian]

I bought the gun way back in the dawn of steel so I could still shoot lead - steel was not required in 20 gauge. I killed a bunch of ducks and a few pheasant with the 3" barrel. Bought the Skeet barrel when I got the gun. Bought the 2-3/4" 28" Full barrel around 1990. If I had not needed it for ducks I would not have bought a Magnum.
If I did not have any other guns and needed as much flexibility as possible I would look at an 11-87. I just like guns and prefer an 1100.

[tudurgs]

Small world. My Dad was a Remington Director about the same time.
I wouldn't concern myself with looking for a 3" 20 gauge. The pattern work Bob Brister did ("Shotgunning, the Art and the Science") pointed out that 3" 20 gauges patterned very poorly.

[Virginian]

Newer components must have made a big difference because I got very good 3" 20 gauge patterns out of both my LT20 and my BPS. I was able to get better than 80% patterns at 40 yards with both, and one load was pushing 90% with 1-1/4 ounce 3" plated lead shot. I think the old adage about the 3" 20 not patterning well is dead.

[rWt]

Yes, small world- my uncle was VP of Production.

Is there a better "vintage" of 1100's to buy? Do you all stay away from LT 1100's made after a certain date? Or is a 70's LT the same quality-wise as a 80's, 90's or later one?

[Virginian]

The only ones I would avoid are the all black matte finished guns of the early 90s when they were still trying to kill the 1100 off and replace it with the 11-87. All the rest including the new Sportings are fine in my opinion, just decide which style you like best. I like the first generation guns personally. They made a run of "Classics" several years ago that looked okay too. The insides are all pretty much the same; parts interchange.

[rWt]

So, you would probably be happier with a 90's 1100 lt with an English stock versus a M series lt with a standard stock?

The only difference being the style of stock and checkering? The metal parts and the mechanics are all the same?

And, there should be no issue having a 90's lt barrel fit a M prefix lt model, for instance?

Is there a recommended source for barrels? Anything to look for or watch out for in looking for a barrel? Some of the 1100 it's I have seen for sale have a shorter barrel than I'd like (28").

[Virginian]

No, I am happier with an M prefix, and that's why I have one. I still have the original stock and switch back and forth occasionally. You can't get the straight stock set on the gun except with a 21" or 23" barrel, and they have a shorter fore end. All the guts are the same. Remington, Midway, and Brownell's have new barrels, and ebay, GunBroker, GunsAmerica, and other have both new and used barrels. Occasionally you can find a deal on ebay and GunBroker. The Sporting barrels have larger ports for lighter loads and they do not advise using with heavy loads. The regular barrels work fine unless you want to shoot some mouse fart loads.

[rWt]

Thanks, again!

Your help is much appreciated!

I gather that with a straight stock you can't simply change barrels? I have seen a 90's lt for sale with straight stock and 24" barrel.