New Model 11, basic questions

[bluegill]

First, thanks to you all for such an informative site and everyone’s willingness to answer questions. I’ve learned a lot about my new Model 11, my first, picked up at a gun show today. Some things I think I’ve figured out, hoping you can confirm, and some questions.

SN on receiver is 289448, which from the Remington journal would indicate Fall of 1924.
Barrel is stamped RK and what appears to be a 7, but can’t be positive about the 7.
From what I see here:
http://www.remingtonsociety.com/rsa/que ... arrelcodes
Would the RK mean the barrel was from November 1941? The SN on the barrel ring is 450534, which, if I’m reading the Remington journal right, would confirm that as September of 1941, assuming the barrels and receivers were matched.

So I’ve got a 1941 barrel on a 1924 receiver, right?

Barrel is also stamped “FULL,” but it has a PolyChoke. I suspect that the choke was added aftermarket then, right?

Finally, can a PolyChoke be effective if the barrel is made with a full choke?

I’m a skeet shooter and I usually use very nice Browning over and unders, but I love the idea of taking this "slightly used" gun to the range, and the history behind it, matched set or not.

Thanks again, Dan

[Researcher]

According to the old factory journal, Model 11 receiver serial number 289448 would have been put in work during November 1924.

So I’ve got a 1941 barrel on a 1924 receiver, right?

Yes.

The original full choke part of the barrel would have been cut off when the Poly-Choke was installed, so the only choke in the barrel would be that provided by the Poly-Choke.

[bluegill]

Thanks Researcher. Really appreciate all the feedback you offer the forum. I wish the barrel and receiver matched, but for my purposes - shooting clays - I guess it doesn't matter as long as it works. I'm not interested in dollar value, just function. I assume it's pretty common for these older guns for that to be the case?

[bluegill]

So I shot this Model 11 for the first time at the range. After I got used to all the movement (I usually shoot over and unders) it was a lot of fun. I didn't break em all, but I didn't embarrass myself.

The gun quit cycling after a few rounds. The first round would fire and eject, but then the chamber would stay open so the lower shell wouldn't chamber. The fresh shell wasn't jammed, it was just laying there. All I had to do was turn the gun over, the shell would roll into the chamber, I'd close the chamber and fire again, and it would eject the shell just fine. So I suppose the chamber was sticking open.

Any first things I should try on this problem?

Thanks again, Dan

[Fowlgunner]

Bluegill,

It is very hard to get anyone to suggest fixes to issues with gun malfunctions, because quite frankly we live in the age of the lawsuit and all we have to go on is the description provided by the poster.

If you have cleaned and lubricated the gun and have the friction brake adjusted properly for the loads that you are shooting, then you really need to have it looked at by a competent gunsmith.

Good luck and good shooting,
Will

[bluegill]

Yeah I understand. Thanks. I've experimented with the action enough to suspect it might be specific to the loads I'm shooting, not pushing the barrel back far enough to fully chamber the next round, but the friction rings are set for the lightest loads, so I don't know for sure.