Two new to me 1900s purchased, adding to the info base

[flintlockshooter]

I'm new to the 1900 world, but shooting muzzloader shotguns for - well - quite a while. I have been reading many of the posts here and want to add my two to the knowledge base, and ask a few questions. Thanks to Researcher for a lot of the knowledge I have gleaned so far. I'm looking into getting the Semmer book for the library.

First is serial # 317956 on the trigger guard, and matching numbers on the forend. Fully checkered safety. Barrels are marked //KD and a P on each. 30" flat rib, I don't see any stampings as have been described for the xxx/511 on this one. The were choke gauged as F/M by the seller, and if I can find my mic I'll post the actual measurements ( something is always lost in the garage ). Ivory bead on front, and the nub of what would have been a center bead. I have read posts that a ivory center bead was not unknown, so this one may have had one. Would a ivory be correct to have replaced?
Extraordinary shape, Damascus is gorgeous for a 1901 or so vintage piece. Has one minor spot where it would have set in a rack and grew a few spots, cosmetic only, and they seem to have been oiled out well.
Barrels don't "ring" very well, but are bright and shiny with no hint I can see of pits. I was told the measured as 2 3/4, a empty shell drops in flush.
The only issue I have with this one is - when I take off the forend the extractor ears pop forward, and I have to push them back to get it back on - minor issue but would be interested in any thoughts. My poor plastic table is getting dented.

Number is is the gem of the two
Q392551 on the trigger guard, ///KED - this 28" barrel has the two stampings 32 56. Choke gauge showed IC/IC. The Damascus on this one is a deep blue unlike the other gun, which has the lighter/silvery pattern. Brass bead, no center on this one, Forend marked also 392551. Scalloped safety. Case color very bright still, this one is almost cherry. Stock has very and I mean very few marks for a 1909 or so vintage.
Barrels on this one are like a chime. 2 3/4 gauged, and a empty drops in flush.
After snap caps, this one is a bear to open - tight as tight.
Sadly, this one has a broken ejector spring. I admire Mr. Potterfield and the excellent video where he made his own, but I'll have to try and source one from somewhere, just started trying - Numrich, Weisners, no luck so far.

I plan on having them looked at even though they are in such good shape, and then shooting them in Friendship if all goes well.
I'll be taking detailed pictures and posting to a Photoshop site of mine in the next day and will let you all see them.

Thanks and hope this helps the research!

[dieNusse1]

As with most things Remington it seems the exceptions are the rule.

First with regards to #317956 -- according to the Semmer book it was produced early in 1902. When introduced in 1900, two versions were offered -- K grade which has Remington steel barrels and extractors and the KED grade which has damascus steel barrels and ejectors. The barrel stamping shows you have a KD grade which according to Semmer wasn't introduced until 1903. ???? Rounding out the list, the KE version was first offered in 1906.

As an aside here are the list prices for the four versions during 1906 - 09.

K - $30
KE - $35
KD - $35
KED - $40

I don't know what is happening to your extractors when you remove the fore end. Perhaps you could expand your question.

As far as I know, the 1900 did not come with a center bead so maybe it was added later or it was special order.

With regards to #392551 -- it was produced in 1910. The barrel choke stampings of 26 & 35 indicate 64 & 66% of the 511 #8 pellets in a 30" circle at 40 yards. This should indicate improved modified so perhaps the barrels have been cut or rechoked. Remington did offer a 28" barrel as well as 30 and 32".

Finally, I'm under the impression that the chamber length was 2 5/8" for 1900's. I've always either used brass cases or plastic when shooting BP and plastic cases for smokeless. The wall thickness for plastic is so much thinner than the old style paper hulls and I don't think it's a problem when using plastic with loads less than 5000 psi. I know of several people who have had chambers reamed to 2 3/4" so that always an option.

As for the broken spring -- fore ends come up on eBay from time to time. Also, try Garland Jackson at 330-669-2138.

[flintlockshooter]

Few more things to add

I measured the chokes thus +- .001

# 31756
right .696
left .694

I also now see and no idea how I missed it markings for the shot count as 37 over 33

Q392551
right .708
left .710
so this bodes well with the IM sizing - the barrels do not appear to have been cut thankfully. MY bad again - I transposed the numbers, it is 32 over 56 not 35/26

#31756 LOP 14.25
#Q392551 LOP 13 7/8

As far as the extractor issue, the forearm has under spring pressure the two ears that push against the extractors themselves under the barrel. One or both of these snap forward on 317956 when the forearm is removed. I cannot put the forearm back on until I push these back into position, it clicks into the slot. I suppose it is a wear issue in the slot.

Pictures coming soon.

[dieNusse1]

I'm still not clear on the extractor issue. It sounds like you actually have ejectors. Is the extractor/ejector one or two pieces? Although the barrels are stamped KD, Semmer documented other KEDs that were stamped KD.

Happy to see that choke measurements for 392551 are not cylinder bore. According to the pellet count the gun was choked IM and full (65 & 70%).

[flintlockshooter]

I also am thinking this is a ejector model as taking apart the two forends I see no difference in the way they are made with the springs and pair of "ears" that would bear against the ejectors - both are split as you would expect ejectors to be in the barrels.
So I may have the exception here - Thanks for the info so far.

I'm grabbing the wife's camera and will post some pics

[flintlockshooter]

317956 after removng forend - released forward

[dieNusse1]

Aha - sounds like we have part of the problem solved. One thing you could try when you want to remove the fore end is to first open the gun, depress the triggers and then close it while the triggers are still depressed. I know this will remove all the tension on the main springs making the weapon unable to fire until it is again cocked by opening . This may also remove any tension of the ejector springs. Worth a try until you find out what the problem might be.

[flintlockshooter]

Must be ejectors if it is split like this?

[dieNusse1]

Ejectors for sure. A lot of things to check -- sears on ejector hammers (ears)? -- alinement of cocking levers? -- excessive wear?

Since you have two guns, you may be able to compare the two to note any differences if you choose to disassemble them.

[dieNusse1]

There is a forend on eBay starting at $50 with a buy it now of $76. #381175853251 i think. Take the spring and sell the rest.

[flintlockshooter]

I have uploaded a complete set of photos for Number 317956 for those with interest.

http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/mtsyl ... %2030%20in

[flintlockshooter]

Thx for the ebay auction tip - looking into it!

[Researcher]

That is a much nicer than average early KED-Grade. I strongly suggest taking it to a professional rather than risk messing it up. What part of the country are you in? Perhaps we could recommend someone.

[flintlockshooter]

Pictures of Q392551 have been uploaded to

http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/mtsyl ... 01900%2028

I am in the Cincinnati area - and yes I agree , I want them both to be fixed and made ready by a professional if possible. They both have survived exceedingly well. If they could only talk ...

[dieNusse1]

I have a bid on the forearm but would be willing to sell the spring should I win. I need the wood.