1884/1900
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1884/1900
Where can I find information on assembly of the 1884/1900 SXS? I found the parts list, but how to assemble them is a headache.
thank you.
thank you.
Re: 1884/1900
The assembly for the 1894 and 1900 is the same except for the fore end. What parts are you trying to assemble?
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
It is a 1900 12 ga.. I have built about 20 ML guns and rifles so a friend handed me his late dad's SXS to finish restocking. The guys brother got as far as restocking the wood on the for-end somewhat, what I have left over is a fore end catch spring, screw and there was a brass pin 1/16 x 7/8 in the bag of parts. The brother passed away so I got the job. I wasn't the one who took it apart, but everything is now all together but I don't know how or where that spring mounts or how to assemble the the top lever.
thank you,
thank you,
Re: 1884/1900
The top lever and rocker bolt are installed before the top lever spring is installed. Compress the spring and slip it into place and all is good.
There are two springs involved in mounting the fore end to the barrels. The first one (very small fore end catch spring) mounts to the wood and places pressure on the fore end catch so that the fore end catch is in position to engage to lug on the barrels when installing the fore end. The fore end catch mounts in the slot provided in the fore end iron using a short pin. I don't have a fore end in front of me but it sounds like your brass pin might work although 1/16" seems a bit slim. I've made pins from #6 or #8 finish nails in the past.
As I recall there are two wood screws involved. The first one (~#6 x 1/2" ????) attaches the front of the fore end iron to the wood while the second (very small) attaches the fore end catch spring to the bottom of the wood.
What's the S/N and is it damascus? Barrel markings?
There are two springs involved in mounting the fore end to the barrels. The first one (very small fore end catch spring) mounts to the wood and places pressure on the fore end catch so that the fore end catch is in position to engage to lug on the barrels when installing the fore end. The fore end catch mounts in the slot provided in the fore end iron using a short pin. I don't have a fore end in front of me but it sounds like your brass pin might work although 1/16" seems a bit slim. I've made pins from #6 or #8 finish nails in the past.
As I recall there are two wood screws involved. The first one (~#6 x 1/2" ????) attaches the front of the fore end iron to the wood while the second (very small) attaches the fore end catch spring to the bottom of the wood.
What's the S/N and is it damascus? Barrel markings?
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
Not Damascus. 29 1/2"
#303123 L42 R40 and a stamped 7 8
There was only one spring in the bag of stuff. I believe it goes down in the wood to supply tension to the big locking piece.
The top lever spring is still installed, how is best to remove and reinstall it without breaking?
thank you,
#303123 L42 R40 and a stamped 7 8
There was only one spring in the bag of stuff. I believe it goes down in the wood to supply tension to the big locking piece.
The top lever spring is still installed, how is best to remove and reinstall it without breaking?
thank you,
Re: 1884/1900
The gun was made in 1900. It was choked modified but since you measured it at 29.5", it would appear that it has been cut down as barrels were offered in 28, 30 & 32". Since it has steel barrels it has extractors as ejectors were only offered with damascus barrels during 1900 - 1903 and the barrels may have a K stamped on them.
The spring should be mounted in the bottom. Not quite sure where but I may have a stripped down wood and I'll measure it if I can find it. Exact placement shouldn't be an issue.
I've always removed the lever spring when rebuilding an action body. However it may be possible to install the top lever with the spring in place. Never even thought about it. It would require some method to compress the spring while installing the rocker bolt and top lever.
The spring should be mounted in the bottom. Not quite sure where but I may have a stripped down wood and I'll measure it if I can find it. Exact placement shouldn't be an issue.
I've always removed the lever spring when rebuilding an action body. However it may be possible to install the top lever with the spring in place. Never even thought about it. It would require some method to compress the spring while installing the rocker bolt and top lever.
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- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
thanks again.
Yes "K" stamped, with a few other small stamps.
What do you think the 7 8 means?
It is a 30" bbl,
Don
Yes "K" stamped, with a few other small stamps.
What do you think the 7 8 means?
It is a 30" bbl,
Don
Re: 1884/1900
Any time.
In addition to the pellet counts on the lug, the 1900 will usually have grade stampings as follows:
K - steel barrels extractors
KE - steel barrels ejectors
KD - damascus barrels extractors
KED - damascus barrels ejectors
Many (most) grade stampings will include other letters/numbers such as LKEDY. We have no idea what L , Y or other letters/numbers mean.
Good luck.
In addition to the pellet counts on the lug, the 1900 will usually have grade stampings as follows:
K - steel barrels extractors
KE - steel barrels ejectors
KD - damascus barrels extractors
KED - damascus barrels ejectors
Many (most) grade stampings will include other letters/numbers such as LKEDY. We have no idea what L , Y or other letters/numbers mean.
Good luck.
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
Do you have any tips on installing the top lever spring, without breaking it?
That thing is giving me fits.
That thing is giving me fits.
Re: 1884/1900
Do you have the right top lever spring? A pair of four inch channel lock pliers go right in place under the top tang.
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Re: 1884/1900
Yes, I have the correct spring.
I tried the channel locks but can't quite get the spring to fit in there. The top lever is not removed. I have broken springs with channel locks before and now this . Ugh.. I am afraid to crank that sucker down too much. I now use a spring vice when I can, but no room here to use one.
if I break that spring ...finding another spring for this gun without $$$$ worries me. thanks guys,
Don
I tried the channel locks but can't quite get the spring to fit in there. The top lever is not removed. I have broken springs with channel locks before and now this . Ugh.. I am afraid to crank that sucker down too much. I now use a spring vice when I can, but no room here to use one.
if I break that spring ...finding another spring for this gun without $$$$ worries me. thanks guys,
Don
Re: 1884/1900
I have put the top lever spring in many times (100) yes that many I have been making them like original for 22 years. If the spring is right 4 inch channel lock they have to be 4 inch on the second setting just enough to put in place. With receiver upside down put right side of spring in place squeeze just enough swing right to left in place push spring pin in hole top tang.
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
Success!
That was a tough spring. I was hesitant to compress it too much, and ending up with a breakage.
thanks all.
That was a tough spring. I was hesitant to compress it too much, and ending up with a breakage.
thanks all.
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:51 am
Re: 1884/1900
My last issue it to install the fore end catch spring. Then done.
.
The guy hogged out his new fore end, so I am not sure exactly where to place it.
I assume it curves downward?
.
The guy hogged out his new fore end, so I am not sure exactly where to place it.
I assume it curves downward?
Re: 1884/1900
OK -- the best way I can explain the spring placement. The screw hole is ~5.5" measured from the front of the wood. The spring is mounted with the hole to the front and curves up to apply tension to the fore arm catch. You may have to remove wood to allow proper placement.
Enjoy!!
Enjoy!!