760 - sling swivel question

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jplant
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 1:52 pm

760 - sling swivel question

Post by jplant »

I recently inherited a 760 in .308 - LOVE the rifle. I want to put a sling on it for deer hunting, and I was told by my local gun shop that I need to use a barrel-band type configuration for the front swivel, as the fore-end cap screw for my particular model doesn't allow for a swivel. I checked Uncle Mikes and they do make sling swivel kits/adapters for these 760's - but again it's the barrel-band type for my rifle. I believe mine is a 1957 vintage rifle - does anybody know if anybody makes a sling swivel that can be used on the fore-end cap screw (I just don't like the look of the barrel-band)?

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
rem141
Posts: 254
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 7:58 am
Location: Annville, Pa

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by rem141 »

Jeff,
The 57 model and up thru 1967 have the action bar tube that does not telescope back with the forearm. So you will need to drill and thread a hole in the end of the action tube, the action tube plug. Then adapt one of the slide action shotgun swivel units to fit. You may be able to find a ball bearing swivel with a short stem , or no stem, to fit. Uncle Mike may still make a unit like that. You could also check with a gunshop to find something in the "takeoff" used parts boxes.
jplant
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 1:52 pm

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by jplant »

rem141,
Thanks for the info. and your suggestion. It sounds like a bit more than I'm capable of getting into myself - so I may just live with it as is.
The Rifleman

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by The Rifleman »

Being the owner of more than 20 of that model of rifle, and also a person that has hunted with about double that number of 760's, here is my opinion.

There is no difference between the early model 760 and the later model 760. As a matter of fact, one time I had a early model 760 - that was such a nice shooting rifle, that I bought a later model rifle and took off the tube and installed the trombone type slide and the later model stock and forearm.

The later style action, I always used the barrel band type mount because the mount that attached itself to the action - always got in the way - when hunting - because it moved back and forth with the slide and made it more difficult to work the action.

The earlier model, it was no big deal where the mount was placed, because it did not travel with the action of the slide. But because I am a tall person, the gun was more comfortable - when the sling was mounted to the barrel / as opposed to mounting it to the tube.

The reason for that was because when I mounted one to the tube, it made the barrel stick further in the air and made it more difficult to maneuver through the thick brush while it was on my shoulder.

Threading the tube is nothing more than being able to use a few simple hand tools. A chart that tells you what drill size to drill the hole and a tap -- that can be bought at most any hardware store and a couple of drops of oil or even grease - to thread the hole.

The action already has a small hole drilled in the center of the end. All you would really be doing is drilling that hole out to a larger size and then leaving enough material outside of that hole to leave material to make the new threads to hold the swivel mount screw.

The hard part is drilling the stock to accept the lag screw type swivel mount. A qualified gunsmith should do that part, as even I have butchered a few in my day.

Some gunsmiths have a jig and a machine called a mill, that is set up to center the hole and also make it perpendicular to the stock.

Don't be afraid to take it to a gunsmith to have this procedure done. Most gunsmiths are good guys and will only charge you $15 to $20 to do the whole operation. Which is 100 times cheaper than trying to get a stock repaired or replaced when you do it the wrong way the first time.

If you cannot find a mount, let me know - because I probably have one someplace or I can direct you to companies that still manufacture that stud for your particular rifle. Uncle Mikes would be my first choice.

You cannot use a mount for a Model 870 Wingmaster - because the screw is much larger for the shotgun model than for the rifle and there is not enough material on the end cap to accept the larger shotgun stud type mount.

The barrel band type is simple to install with a few simple hand tools and some patience. It does however require you to take the front site off the rifle to install the barrel band on the Uncle Mikes version. You have to use a drift punch to move the front site off the rail and then you have to use a screw driver to remove the screws from the barrel. they might have loctite on them, which would also require you to have a propane torch to heat the screws to break the thread locker. You would then need a small tube of small screw thread locker - PINK - Loctite to put it back together.

But you would still need someone to drill the stock for you, so you really wouldn't be accomplishing anything by trying to do it yourself.
gamemaster141r
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:12 am

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by gamemaster141r »

i'm pretty sure uncle mikes makes what they call a pre-68 760 kit that replaces the knob on the end of the slide with one that has a swivel on it. i have one in my stuff somewhere that i have been meaning on putting on my '58 308.
rem141
Posts: 254
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 7:58 am
Location: Annville, Pa

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by rem141 »

A question for Remington141R, does the 141R mean that you collect or have interest in the Model 141 carbines? If so I would like to talk with you, KenBlauch@aol.com
The Rifleman

Re: 760 - sling swivel question

Post by The Rifleman »

There is no Knob on the end of the slide on the pre 68' - 760 Gamemaster.

The barrel has a spacer that is sometimes spot welded to the barrel that goes between the pump tube and the barrel.

The part that you call the knob is actually welded or pinned to the end of the tube and should not / or cannot be removed, as I remember it - it is an integral part of the tube.

Like I also said, that part isn't the hard part to drill / tap. The stock is the more critical part of the two.

I bought an old .35 Remington / 760, that I used for a year or two that had a swivel that kept coming loose. When I removed it, I found that someone that stuck a stud made with lag screw threads inside the tube - it did not have the machine threads in either the tube or the swivel. The threads were so course that they couldn't hold on to the steel in the tube.
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