Model 14 / Making it difficult to help!

[nambujim]

There is a recent post where a chap wants to refinish the stock on his Model 14 and provides a link to a site where he has pictures. Hit the bloody link and you have to register to see the damn pics, attach the pics to your posting our "I" won't bother to look, and most certainly won't respond.

I just received an email off-site saying that based on my posts maybe I can help him, he uses some "Bonanza" email service that after typing seven lines it virtually locked up my computer, not helpful. His inquiry was about an action bar for a .30 Caliber rifle with a "large loading door" and he needed a replacement. Here's the deal, based on the serial (or approximate serial) there are four (4) different modifications of the action bar, if you lay out thirty (30) loading doors on a table..........you might find two that match. Here in lies the problem with making an attempted fix to you Model 14. The individual didn't describe his problem with the action bar but just needed one "with a large loading door".

I keep telling folks how difficult it is to match up parts for these rifles but I obviously lack the necessary communication skills. I will re-state as profoundly as I can.............."almost 90% of ALL loading & feeding problems are related to the ammunition and in particular......reloads"!!

Again.........these rifles were designed to use ONLY round nose bullets and OACL is critical. Even going way back in history, Winchester-Western ammunition had feed problems because their rim thickness was different than the Remington factory ammunition. Add to this, these rifles are brutal to brass and after you clean the rim up a few times they eject poorly. These rifles are the latest in "1910" technology and were designed to use NEW pristine factory ammunition with RN bullets so when reloading keep that in mind and set your dies using factory rounds so that the OACL is correct. It seems that about every decade Remington made the OACL less.......and less right up until their final runs in the 1970's so the shorter the better.

OH Yeah....................thanks to input from Ken Blauch and Tom Hemphill, ALWAYS use a factory crimp die!!! Lee makes a cheap one that does a truly excellent job.

Jim Peterson
Feeling a bit cranky in Charlotte, NC

[JMD]

Good day sir. I am new to this forum but have been reading many of your posts. You certainly have a vast amount of knowledge and experience with the 14, 14 1/2 and 141 rifles. If it is not a bother I was hoping you might lend me some information. I have recently received a 141 in .35 Rem serial # 74****. The weapon functions fine and I have loaded and cycled the action with no hang-ups or failure to chamber. The only defect is a broken action bar cover in the most common area, the screw tap. My first question is can I use this rifle without an action bar cover safely? I understand debris in the magazine tube is something I will need to be vigilant about. My other question is about finding a reputable gun smith who has experience working on these rifles. Thanks in advance for any advise or information you can give me.
Respectfully
Joe

[nambujim]

Joe!

Yes, the rifle will function properly without the action bar cover. The main purpose of the cover is to keep out the crud and of course the flange keeps the cartridge stop in place..............without the stop in place the rifle will not feed.

I'm not clear as to your problem, is the cover broken off at the flange or has the head of the screw broken off. If you need a a/b cover I have a few but they are very pricey and extremely hard to find. I'm thinking the flange for the cover must still be in place or the rifle would not function.

I work on these guns (only) every day and must tell you that the later the serial on the 141 the worse the internal workmanship was with a lot of heavy machine marks and not the best fit...............to the point where in some cases it requires a dead blow hammer to separate the upper lower receiver. Yours comes under this category. They were getting ready to switch over to the newer models and I don't think they were taking as much care as they did with the pre-war versions.

I hope this helps!

Jim Peterson
Charlotte, NC

[JMD]

Jim, this was very helpful, thank you much. Yes the cover is broken from the flange and the flange and screw are still in place. The cover is as well, it just slides freely and I can move it over the magazine opening and it will stay in place unless I tilt it muzzle down.

I have disassembled and reassembled (just the basic take-down, separate the upper and remove the breech block) with little problem. Disappointed to hear the poor quality of the later models.

I am going to get it to the range shortly and see how she shoots. If I where looking to have some work done in the near future would you be able and or willing to provide your services?

Thank you greatly for you quick reply and knowledgeable insight.
Respectfully
Joe D

[nambujim]

Joe!

Yes, be glad to work on your rifle BUT it would probably be best if you removed the detached portion of the action bar cover. Something could catch in it and jam things up. Just remove the screws from the fore end, slide the fore end forward, and then you should be able to slip out what is left of the action bar cover.

Jim

[JMD]

Jim, thanks again for good advice. I need to put some rounds through her and see if anything else is going on. I am a "if it's not broke don't fix it type", so if I have no other issues I will be happy. This rifle will be used sparingly once dialed in. Enjoy the rest of you weekend and please let me know the best way to exchange contact information if I would need work done in the near future. I don't know if it is wise or safe to post my e mail and phone # here, but let me know your preference.

Take care
Joe

[nambujim]

Joe!

Its nambujim@charlotte.twcbc.com

if you need to contact me.

JWP